Starting Fresh and Obeying the Laws of Physics

[edenorchestra]

Ok all, I decided to start a fresh thread here. I am attaching my ACAD drawing that I plotted out to a *.jpg, unfortunately it doesn't translate real well but hopefully you all can read it, here is also a ZIP file with a DXF enclosed if you can read that.

My problem is that I am trying to span 24 feet for my inner ceiling leaf and of course as we all have experienced, want it all . . right. This is my second studio with the first in a house now sold. I will shoot some photos out on the forum to show you all what I am up to for your most excellent 2 cents.

Cheers,

[edenorchestra]

Here is a shot of the building.

[edenorchestra]

And for sh%ts and giggles a shot of my old studio, I sold the house and have all my gear sitting in a pile dying to be released from bondage when I ever get the new one finished.

[Paul Woodlock]

Greetings Mark

I do envy you Americans for having such big garages


I'm currently building my new studio in a double garage, so you could o a lot worse than read my "Paul's Studio Build diary" here... http://forum.studiotips.com/viewforum.php?f=1

I've hung 6 layers of drywall off 2 x 7 joists on a 15' span @ 15" centres. And the sag of the ceiling is about 2mm ( 1/12" )

I used a demo of a program called Superbeam 4 to calculate the joist size for the span. ( google it, you should find fairly easily. I think it's a UK program, but it doe both imperial and metric.


For your application you don't need a floating floor ( unless you haev EXTREMELY HIGH Isolatio needs. I couldn't tell from your drawing whether the floor was to be floating, but just letting you know in advance


Also you should keep your walls DOUBLE LEAF. IOW, if you existing garage has double leaf walls ( boards on either side of studs ), you should remove the inner original layer first, and build up the outer layer between the studs.

you should also put rockwool slabs between the studs of the inner room to dampen void resonances in the void.

One of the biggest headaches will be the garage doors. See my Studio Build Diary for more details. adn there' a whole thread at the StudioTips site devoted to them as well.

hth




Paul

[dymaxian]

Hey Eden - how far into construction are you? Is the existing garage going to be your outer shell? I saw your thread about sound getting into your soffit vents and between your two mass leaves- I had a suggestion to counter that, but it would have meant taking sheathing off the outside wall, and I presumed you already had it up.

If you do NOT, my recommendation was to put the heavy mass leaf for the outer wall on the INSIDE of the studs, instead of the outside and under the siding or whatever. If you left the outside sheathing un-sealed (some builders in my area will occasionally just sheath the corners of the house for structural support, but put up foam under the siding) the siding won't act as a sealed mass leaf and you won't get a triple-leaf system. Having the heavy sheathing on the inside of the outer wall will let you vent the roof system normally without worrying about outside air or sound getting in between your mass leaves.

I dont know if this does you any good or not. If you haven't started building yet, this may help you out. If not, you've probably got a fix from the other thread anyway.

[AVare]

Got your email, and looked at the drawings. What a refreshing change having the details all there in a manner whee they can be played with. Thanks.

Overall the plan looks good. Things that started to some to my mind, nad you may have already addresed them in your mind are power and signal wiring. Being an eletrical engineer, these may be non-issues already to you.

I was thinking running all the electrical in the walls and then having troughs in the floor for signal cables. With it being an open space, several circuits of dimmable lighting. The dimmers are either the auto-transformer type or Lutron Grafik-Eye 3000/4000 series in electronic.

Any thoughts on variable acoustic panels for the walls? Witht hat space, you could nake the panels large enoough to swing open and create instant goboes/mini-amp traps.

Andre

[edenorchestra]

Gee thanks for all the interest . . cool.

Paul: I did not have an inner wall so what I have done is to fill the area between the studs with two layers of dywall which is a close to adding drywall to the outside of the building as I can get. My inner leaf will be a separate partition with two or three layers of gypsum, but keep in mind also that I have a very cool viscoelastic polymer that will be sandwiched between the drywall inner leafs. I have looked at you diary and must say good job my man . . good job . . great wealth of information you have shared with this forum. The garage doors will be history come spring as I will be adding additional space for a live area and the doors will go to the dump. As for the sub floor . . hmmm . . I do have an issue here with trains about 500 or so yards away . . also the concrete floor in the garage is somewhat uneven in nature which made me feel that I would need the subfloor . . any additional thoughts on that . . I need more outside to inside isolation than I do the converse as I live in a rural area on about 5 acres where my neighbors really are not bothered by me. I did download the Super span program you suggested, but will need a bit more time to mull over it . . in the meantime I have a structural engineer reviewing my design as well . . so by next week I should have some good suggestions.

Dymaxian: The buiding was already built when I bought the property this spring. I have left the outside alone and have filled the area with drywall leaving the inner side empty. My second wall will be a completely new frame with drywall as described above . . .

Andre: Most of my lighting will be automated. I am a controls engineer so the lighting and such will be contolled by a Programmable Logic Controller (PLC) with touch screens and distributed I/O across a real time network . . its a real cool way to control power and do cool things with automating doors, camera . . etc . . if anyone would like to know more about that I can help.

Any thoughts on variable acoustic panels for the walls? Witht hat space, you could nake the panels large enoough to swing open and create instant goboes/mini-amp traps.

Being that the studio is an open control room . . your suggestion on the variable acoustic panels for the walls is of great interest . . I have not even considered much of my acoustics (though I need to for sure) as I have been so wrapped up in the sound proofing . . .

[AVare]

concrete floor in the garage is somewhat uneven in nature which made me feel that I would need the subfloor . . any additional thoughts on that

I wrote previously about troughs in the floor. This ties in. If you determine that you do not a floating floor, or if to do it with concrete, use self-leveling concrete. A great time to pour the cable troughs right in the floor.

Most of my lighting will be automated. I am a controls engineer so the lighting and such will be contolled by a Programmable Logic Controller (PLC) with touch screens and distributed I/O across a real time network . . its a real cool way to control power and do cool things with automating doors, camera . . etc . . if anyone would like to know more about that I can help.

Sounds good. RFI is the only concern I have, but you are familiar with the stuff. I am not. The use of PLCs sounds interesting.

Being that the studio is an open control room . . your suggestion on the variable acoustic panels for the walls is of great interest . . I have not even considered much of my acoustics (though I need to for sure) as I have been so wrapped up in the sound proofing .

The main factor is what will, change in the walls. Locations of plugs, etc. plus possible recessing of absorbent material etc.

[edenorchestra]

Greetings all . . how's everyone today?

Advare:

I wrote previously about troughs in the floor. This ties in. If you determine that you do not a floating floor, or if to do it with concrete, use self-leveling concrete. A great time to pour the cable troughs right in the floor.

My biggest issue is that pouring concrete at this point would be an ungodly pain and would most likely not be an option due to access of the building . . storage of equipment . . and such . . so I must go with the wooden floor to which I have gathered EPDM rubber from my local roofing friend. . .


Advare:

Sounds good. RFI is the only concern I have, but you are familiar with the stuff. I am not. The use of PLCs sounds interesting.

No RFI issues with these . . I use them all day long in the most demanding industrial environments . . the communication layer is most quiet as long as you follow the proper wiring topology and specifications

I certainly want to entertain quite soon the issue of wiring, and internal sound absobtion but first I woul like to discuss HVAC. I plan to have a centralized system in a mechanical room and am proposing this duct arrangement to be installed in the attic space above the outer ceiling. My question is the compromising of the two ceiling leaves with the supply air. The returns are going to be on pillars (4) running floor to ceiling up the walls . . any thoughts on this??

Regards,

[AVare]

My biggest issue is that pouring concrete at this point would be an ungodly pain and would most likely not be an option due to access of the building . . storage of equipment . . and such . . so I must go with the wooden floor to which I have gathered EPDM rubber from my local roofing friend. . .

Your choice obviously. Leveling the floor with shims will be a time consuming job if you have to do that. As the design considerations progress,

Gathering EPDM? Do you know the hardness of it and that it is all from the same type?

That still leaves the question of troughs in the floor. Thoughts on that?

I certainly want to entertain quite soon the issue of wiring, and internal sound absorption but first I would like to discuss HVAC. I plan to have a centralized system in a mechanical room and am proposing this duct arrangement to be installed in the attic space above the outer ceiling. My question is the compromising of the two ceiling leaves with the supply air. The returns are going to be on pillars (4) running floor to ceiling up the walls . . any thoughts on this??

Looking over the drawing file (fantastic having that to reference!), the room volume is about 7000 ft^3. Assuming ten air changes per hour and a maximum linear air velocity of 500 ft/min, an effective vent area of 836 "^2 is needed. From what I can tell of your (last) posted drawing, you have 800"^2 of vent opening, but at the main duct only 480"^2 on the main duct.

The supply air and return entries are called breakouts in the HVAC industry. Basically the ducts are insulated on the outside with dense material to provide sound isolation. Also the inside is lined with absorbent material. Depending on the needs, vanes are installed in the elbows to maintain laminar flow in the duct, reducing the self noise made by the elbow.

Andre

[knightfly]

Am I seeing a common supply runner for both rooms, with multiple drops? If so, "do not pass go, do not collect $200..." - for decent iso between rooms, you need separate runs from the air handler to EACH and FROM each room, with longer than normal run length and at least 2 bends per run;

Also, don't plan for air outlets that will disrupt the air between you and your speakers, or sit close to your head, etc - injecting cool air in the sound path can cause serious sound anomalies due to changing density of air, actual sound speed, etc - same thing with mounting power amps below speakers in a soffit system; not good... Steve

[AVare]

Am I seeing a common supply runner for both rooms, with multiple drops? If so, "do not pass go, do not collect $200..." - for decent iso between rooms, you need separate runs from the air handler to EACH and FROM each room, with longer than normal run length and at least 2 bends per run;

I think I'm missing something. Is was under the impression that the studio will be one open room.

Also, don't plan for air outlets that will disrupt the air between you and your speakers, or sit close to your head, etc - injecting cool air in the sound path can cause serious sound anomalies due to changing density of air, actual sound speed, etc - same thing with mounting power amps below speakers in a soffit system; not good..

Great points. I had forgotten to think about that at all. If the above (what I wrote) is correct, then the HVAC will have to arranged to address all identifiable control area setups.

Forgetfully;
Andre

[AVare]

After posting my last post, I had a nagging feeling I had left a key point unclear. Hopefully I am wrong, but just in case I am not, here it is explicitly.

Where I wrote about "effective duct area" that meant the resistance to air flow presented by all compnents within the duct system. Where this becomes important, but immediately obvious, is with the duct vents. Because of the effectis of trim reducing gross area, vanes, slats causing turbulence etc in vent covers, the effective vent area is smaller than the physical dimensions of the open area of the vent.

The 800 "^2 is close enough. The 480 "^2 in the main duct is not.

I hope I got everything this time;
Andre

[knightfly]

Andre, you're probably right on the single room thing, likely my bad; thought the next step was enclosing the space outside the existing, at which time a CR would be added - that was the scenario I alluded to as far as multiple drops were concerned. If the ducts aren't planned for in advance it could be a real bitch doing separate ones later... Steve

[AVare]

If the ducts aren't planned for in advance it could be a real bitch doing separate ones later..

Total agreement. To plan for for if it might happen will be of minimal, if any cost.

Always impressed with your insight;
Andre