Attach rockwool to the floor tables? floatingonly drums???

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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hugo_inside
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Attach rockwool to the floor tables? floatingonly drums???

Post by hugo_inside »

the foor is now my problem :lol: . So many questions about this:

- If I had 100 mm x 50mm joists and 40 mm rockwool, should I paste or attach the rockwool to the particle board panels to avoid boomy floor?

- What's the better way to go?: 1.- paste rockwool to the floor panel? 2 .- fill the gaps with only fiberglass (100 mm)

- If I put joist lay down on the 100 mm side and give 50 mm of heigh, and fill gaps with fiberglass, there is any problem??

- Is rockwool much better than fiberglass??
Last edited by hugo_inside on Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

If you have 100mm height from joists and 12mm height from EPDM pads, you need about 120mm of insulation (before compressing into floor frame) - with a floor lighter than 80mm concrete, you will want all the insulation you can get into the floor without too much compression; this will damp the floor panels so they don't boom. You don't want more than a slight compression of the insulation though; this can "short out" the floor acoustically, and worsen your isolation.

If your rockwool actually measures 40mm, 3 layers would be a perfect fit... Steve
hugo_inside
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Post by hugo_inside »

I'm searching the way to make the cheapest floating floor. I know that way doesn't isolate good the rooms, but 3 layers of rock wool with EPDM pucks on 100 x 50 joist and plies of fiberboard 15 mm and 3 mm rubber blanket, will increase the costs to more than 500 € for 15 m2. And rise the floor 150 mm, what means to rise the walls too 150 mm and increase the costs...

If floating floors on the cheaper way is not effective, I don't float it on jamming rooms.

The way you told me is the way I go on the recording studio, wich costs doesn't matter if is the best. But I think I need more than 3 years to pay off the investment if I made the rooms on the way you say. 3 Years with all the rooms rented all the time...

There is no other way to do the better but the cheaper isolation??
:cry: :cry:
hugo_inside
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Location: Valencia, Spain

Post by hugo_inside »

if you need material cost info: this is the minimum price I found.

- 4400x100x50 mm fir joist ------------------- 8'15 €

- 2440x1220x15 mm particleboard without veneer --- 5'10 €

- 2500x1250x15 mm fir plywood ------- 36,54€

- EPDM 1000x1000x20 mm ------------- 117€

- Neophrene 1000x1000x7mm --------- 25 €

- rockwool 1350x600x40mm ---------- 2,37€

- rockwool roll 7000x1200x70 mm --- 17€

- linolium 1000x3 mm (10 meters) --- 27 €

Anything else?? the warehouse IS NOT MINE, IT'S RENTED. this is very important because I'm thinking buying one and bring all I can to the other place before.
hugo_inside
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Location: Valencia, Spain

Post by hugo_inside »

If I only float the drums floor is a good way? it will minimize costs ...
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

If it's cheaper, just floating drums (with enough space for the bass amp too) would be better than not floating; also, sand is a good dampener; people have had good luck filling joist cavities with sand (dry sand) completely full, then laying the flooring on top of joists so the flooring touches joist and sand - doing that, you could lower the floor to 90mm joists; just leave a soft perimeter board (like celotex) to isolate the platform from walls. With 1/2" EPDM pucks, you would need 4" (100mm) of sand - not sure what sand costs where you're at, but in my area it would cost about $25 USD for a 15 M2 floor filled 100mm deep with sand. (That's just the sand of course)

Might be a good way for your practice rooms... Steve
hugo_inside
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Post by hugo_inside »

sand could be free because beach is a few miles close to my town :lol:.

beach sand will work, do I? or there is any problem? maybe it is so wet? :( ?
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

If you have time to wait, you could spread it out on the concrete floor and rake it around (in an area that's not being used, of course) - wet sand won't settle until it's dry, also the wetness will cause problems with rot so it MUST be dry... Steve
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