John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

the concrete wall iand the seathing attached to it are not one wall. The seathing blocks are 60x60 with space between them. Behind them the rubber strip acts as a vapor barrier i guess. The the concrete wall, no insulation.
The mlv would act as a sound dampening and would be the easiest to fix/attach. With glue.
Stuff with insulation to reduce air gap,
Close with denser pb and caulk.

No visible drainage on the side of the walls.


I would like to build a new window on the iiner side also. Do you think in this case the the mlv procedure is redundant? Waste of time?

i think you have 2 layers of mass - one heavy and one light. a light window on the exterior light wall, and a heavy one on the inside heavy wall. this creates a continuation of the walls and the air gap. the light exterior wall and window would not contribute significantly to a 3rd leaf issue so would make thing consistent and avoid complex partial solutions which may or not work as desired.

thanks,

so installing a heavier window and not addressing the issue with the air gap inside the existing wall niche is better and price/perfomance better? What about if i at least remove the PB fill with insulation and close it with the denser PB? and install new windows?

here is the pic of the whole i took for better understanding perhaps:-)

this is behind the right PB

so there is the vapour barrier there. i wouldn't change that. just as before - light window on sheathing, heavy window on wall. 2 layers intact with proper breathing between. if the windows are that far out of alignment, i'd build up the inner wall and/or outer wall to match if feasible.

Pardon mine construction jargon
Am not sure if its really vapor barrier, it feels like rubber, and its not see through.

I habe one thought installing new window on the inner edge of the window shel..
The pb is around the edge (right corner of the window to be. Wouldn,t that be the weakest link?

yes the pb would be one of the weak links. why not eliminate it?

Good idea, thanks.

Would like to examine the alternativ if possible, and keep the light steel frame supporting the pb.
Can i somwhow stiffen the right corner with more PB, mdf, caulk? It would also be visually more acceptable nd easier to do. I would apply this system to all windows in the offices at some point, i have 11

i would consider block on the gap edges of the inner wall as the better choice. then once the sized is roughed in, add the jambs and windows. the labor costs for (re)building the 11 windows is likely to be more than materials. so if the light frame and particle board don't cut it - then what? more labor, more materials? or live with it?

would you care to be a bit more specific what are you suggesting to do in the gap?

thanks in advance

from the drawing, you have a gap on one side of the window with PB and some steel frames, i'm suggesting take that out and replace with a stack of bricks or block to rough in the window opening. then you'll have a solid surround. add in the jamb and the window. skip trying to do some mediocre fix which may or may not work as expected.

Off course, you are right!

Would you suggest taking the whole right side of the frame out and ''brick it'' or just the part that will connect with the new window? Just want to be sure if i understand the ''physics'' right.

Also, would you suggest changing the window panes with thicker ones in the outside window?
(I was thinking it probably is not worth the hassle, since the wekaest link is the sides not the thickness of the glass.)

thanks a lot, btw.

the bricks - yes. the heavy wall would have the heavy window.

Thanks again,

What about the smaller gap on the left?

Am thinking of adding new windows only in critical room / where recording will take place.
In other offices i would try to isolate it as much as possible without going ‘all in’’.

would ther be any benefit if i would fill the air gap with fluffy insulation? And cover with denser Pb
Dont mind the work and with the right tools its really no hassle. My question is only will it be better than leaving it as is?
Thanks

the best approach is to get an equiv mass into the gaps as the wall. and the window. perhaps instead of the PB on the edge, use cement board (like they use for tile backing) or exterior sheathing gwb. but the better approach is to get the mass to the rough in dimensions needed then attach the jamb and seal it. for studio - best effort and cost. for the rest of the office - as budget allows.