Hi Steve,
I had a good look around the roof and eves today and cannot see any venting at all!!. Do not know where or how the iron roof is vented.
What kinda isolation flanking noise into the control room do you think I will get if I just added two more layers of wallboard to the existing ceiling - just in the drum room - would be 43mm of wall board in total. The new walls in the drum room would touch the bottom layer of this new gyp, the new control room wall would only touch the original ceilings wallboard.
If it were you would you compromise on isolation or room height if on a budget?
JohnG
walls for the poor!! - your comments appreciated.
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Johnrg
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knightfly
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Flanking only needs one layer to get through; you will need to decouple that ceiling somehow. I'm outa time for today (off to the salt mines) but will try to give this some more time ASAP.
I'd have to decide based on neighbors and noise; a space you have to sit in a chair to enter, if it's SOUNDPROOF, will still be more usable than one you can play basketball in but every bounce of the ball pisses off someone... Steve
I'd have to decide based on neighbors and noise; a space you have to sit in a chair to enter, if it's SOUNDPROOF, will still be more usable than one you can play basketball in but every bounce of the ball pisses off someone... Steve
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Johnrg
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Thanks Steve,
Look forward to your reply.
The room I am building in is typical New Zealand construction that has floor joists mounted on "house piles" (concrete posts in the ground) with one layer of 20mm chipboard flooring. The existing floor is about 1-1.5feet above the ground. As you can imagine the floor seems pretty solid to walk on but is rather bouncy/boomy if you jump up and down on it. I have had my builder check the spec and he said this type of construction can easily hold my new floated floor and walls but I am really consious that I do need to float the floor to help with the bouncy/boomy floor - read flanking noise. My problem is that if I also attach a new ceiling to these walls - basically float the whole room - I will be down to a room height that is 7.2feet. That's getting pretty low.
So to sum up:
(1) I am starting with 7.87feet (2400mm)
(2) I have to float the floor to control the existing floors bounce/boom (100mm)
(3) The new walls will go on this new floor - no problem here.
(4) I can't get into the existing attic - the existing ceiling, that the control room will share has to stay as is.
(5) If I add a false ceiling to these walls with 90x45mm joists (short span) and two new layers of 15mm wallboard I am down to a total room height of about 7.119feet (2170mm). Kinda short!!
I suppose what I am looking for is a solution to preserve a bit more room height but also get the desired isolation - although thinking out aloud the acoustic gain by increasing the room height from 2170mm to 2270mm is probally F-all anyway considering the loss of isolation I will get by just attaching new wall board to the existing ceiling - maybe I just answered my own question. It seems to make more sense when see it on paper!!
Thanks again
JohnG
Look forward to your reply.
The room I am building in is typical New Zealand construction that has floor joists mounted on "house piles" (concrete posts in the ground) with one layer of 20mm chipboard flooring. The existing floor is about 1-1.5feet above the ground. As you can imagine the floor seems pretty solid to walk on but is rather bouncy/boomy if you jump up and down on it. I have had my builder check the spec and he said this type of construction can easily hold my new floated floor and walls but I am really consious that I do need to float the floor to help with the bouncy/boomy floor - read flanking noise. My problem is that if I also attach a new ceiling to these walls - basically float the whole room - I will be down to a room height that is 7.2feet. That's getting pretty low.
So to sum up:
(1) I am starting with 7.87feet (2400mm)
(2) I have to float the floor to control the existing floors bounce/boom (100mm)
(3) The new walls will go on this new floor - no problem here.
(4) I can't get into the existing attic - the existing ceiling, that the control room will share has to stay as is.
(5) If I add a false ceiling to these walls with 90x45mm joists (short span) and two new layers of 15mm wallboard I am down to a total room height of about 7.119feet (2170mm). Kinda short!!
I suppose what I am looking for is a solution to preserve a bit more room height but also get the desired isolation - although thinking out aloud the acoustic gain by increasing the room height from 2170mm to 2270mm is probally F-all anyway considering the loss of isolation I will get by just attaching new wall board to the existing ceiling - maybe I just answered my own question. It seems to make more sense when see it on paper!!
Thanks again
JohnG
Studio Gallery at:
www.peelproductions.net.nz
www.peelproductions.net.nz