Basic, economic basement 'studio'

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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nicholaspaul
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 2:19 am
Location: Calgary AB Canada
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Post by nicholaspaul »

the dreamer wrote: If the hinges can handle it you could glue and screw a layer od MDF on the door. Make it bigger then a the door is, so you can make a second seal around. You will have to build a frame on the wall around the door as a counterpart to thighten the seal.
I hope that makes sense to you.
Oh yes. 100% :)
regular foam......no, no, no, closed cell...
acoustic foam...works well (for example Auralex), not cheap.
fiberglass...works well...most bang for the buck.
Got it !

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to finish the framing, stick Rolux SafenSound inside, double drywall the whole thing,MDF the door and then make some fibreglass panels. Should be a beaut.
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

Don't forget to check the REFERENCE section; there's a door thread there that may help, plus the "complete section" thread for general wall construction techniques... Steve

The Roxul Safe and Sound is usually cheaper and just as good as the OC 703, BTW
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
nicholaspaul
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 2:19 am
Location: Calgary AB Canada
Contact:

Post by nicholaspaul »

If SafenSound is as good, then I'm using it! The Roxul rep for Calgary was, well, helpless and apparently Home Depot can't get Roxul rigid fibreglass.

Thanks Steve!
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