John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Well I got started on the second layer......Rotated to make stronger and more airtight.
Cant wait to be done with the ceiling!

steve

Just as long as the seams dont mate up (except of course at the walls. )

I can’t find a way around it! Some seams will always mach-up because the edges of the drywall have to be screwed to the studs, unless i am missing something (and I probably am as my brain is fried)

steve

Shift one layer (the second one, now) over by TWO feet and same lengthwise; cut half-sheets to fill the 2 foot blank areas, then continue with full sheets to the end, then fill with whatever size works for the last sheet in each dimension - that way, you have at least a 2 foot offset for each joint in each direction (assuming your joists are on 2 foot centers)

HTH... Steve

fisher of men wrote:I got mine on ebay, with shipping it came to around 300$ However the crank assembly is flimsy and with the extension it adds allot of stress to that crank.

I too have seen that "infamous red copycat model" on eBay for a few hundred dollars less than the "real" TelPro one. I feared it was too flimsy, and your report confirms this.

In my case, I only have to go up about 10 feet... But still, I'm a chicken, so I'm still planning to get the one with "pro" in its name so that (1) I can have more confidence in it and (2) I can get more money for it when I sell it when I'm done.

Thanks for the info!

I got started on the second layer......Rotated to make stronger and more airtight.

I see -- but you're still not staggering!! I hate to repeat myself, but...


Source: Hanging Ceiling Drywall on Easy2DIY.com

Thanks guys for all your help and good ideas, i have got to much done to start over now and i am hopeing that i wont have to much performance loss.
knightfly,,, I did shift over 2' on the side and now there are very few seams that line up. I now see what you are saying, and I will use it on the walls.
Thanks again, steve

And you'd better stagger the panels on the walls, or I'm gonna take I-5 south to your neck of the woods and knock you upside the head with a drywall scrap!

I know better now........

steve

hello, sorry to jump in here so late, but i did not notice a vapor barrier on your ceiling - shouldn't there be one just between the insulation and drywall?

fisher of men wrote: I know better now........

steve

Hey Fisher remember this one...

In All thy Getting, get an understanding

It's cool we all are learning in here.

I think you mean vapor retarder... Yes, there's a difference. See:

• Healthy and Affordable Housing:
  Practical Recommendations for Building, Renovating, and Maintaining Housing
  
  Excerpt:
  • In new construction and significant renovations where there is a choice of vapor retarders, paper faced cavity insulation can and should be used in place of plastic interior vapor barriers. . . Building codes do not call for the installation of vapor barriers. They call for the installation of vapor retarders -- and only in cool and cold climates or colder . . .

Based on that excerpt, I'm thinking that neither a vapor barrier nor a vapor retarder is needed, since he's in Southern California -- an area which is not in a cool or cold climate according to Figure 21 on page 17 of the document (which is page 23 of the PDF).

Does anyone disagree with this assessment?

I actually Agree with this asessment. Seems totally unecessary to me, unless he is worried about the roof leaking onto his gear at some point.

Agreed; especially if my unanswered question about roll roofing over ply is correct. That will act as a pretty complete vapor barrier, and you don't want TWO in any partition. Paper is a VARIABLE perm material, sorta works as well as you need it, so that would be OK but not necessary... Steve

Awesome -- that answers a question I've had for some time about whether or not I should do a vapor barrier -- er, uh, retarder. I'm definitely not in a cool climate!

I got started on the parti. wall im adding the second layer of drywall to this wall with STAGERED seams so no seams will line up on the existing wall and where it will mate to the ceiling.
After this layer is done I will start framing the soundproof wall 12" away from this one.
Thank you all for your help This is a great site!
steve

knightfly Agreed; especially if my unanswered question about roll roofing over ply is correct.

Sorry for the unanswered question, Yes there is rolled roofing 3/4 ply.
Thanks,