John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Actually, was there any reason for me to wait on cutting up the box pieces? I was holding off thinking you needed to check things on your end. It won't take long to fabricate those because its all done on the table saw. I can whip those up by the end of today.

Let me just double-check the dimensions of the enclosure boxes, and I'll get back to you. To do that, please confirm what type and thickness Sorbothane sheets you already have, to see where I can fit those in, and if you'll need to order other stuff. Don't forget that you got that stuff for the other speakers (before switching to the Trios) and original soffit design, so it might not be applicable here. I can probably still use it under the boxes, but perhaps not inside them. I'm sure you get what I mean, without going into details that would reveal too much ...

- Stuart -

I a (12" x 12") 1" thick duro 50 sheet of Sorbothane.

Cool! We can use that.


- Stuart -

Awesome! Those sheets cost about 200 bucks a piece...

Yep! It's not cheap, but it's the best stuff out there.


- Stuart -

OK here are the upper hangar picks.

Next comes the boxes and the main soffit enclosure!

Cool! Looking good!

Time for another REW test!

I'll have the final box dimensions for you tomorrow.... a few minor tweaks are needed.

- Stuart -

Righto.

I'm thinking we may need to move the mic position since we're changing the angle of the speakers. I'm assuming that changes the head position as well.

What did you use to fasten the 703 to the Homasote? It looks much cleaner than the duct tape method most people use!

Greg

I'm thinking we may need to move the mic position since we're changing the angle of the speakers. I'm assuming that changes the head position as well.

Do one test (set of 3) with the mic in its original location, same as always, then another set of 3 with the mic in the new location, so I can compare and have a future new baseline with comparison to the old.

The new mic/head position will be 61" back from the face of the drywall on the front wall (above the window). I think that's the easiest place to measure it from, since the glass is angled and you won't have good access under the window in the future. So measure straight back form that drywall face, parallel to the floor, and drop down a vertical at 61". That's the new head-ear position (assuming you still want to go with the "minimalist desk" design that I showed you before). If you go with a bigger desk, you might not be able to get so far forward. That would still be OK acoustically, as long as you only go back a couple of inches, max, since your speakers have pretty smooth horizontal dispersion, and the sweet spot / RFZ area are both large enough for that. But it would be best if you can keep it to 61". It might be an idea to lay out the outline of that desk on the floor with masking tape, and set up an actual chair, to double-check that it will all work for you.

- Stuart -

What did you use to fasten the 703 to the Homasote? It looks much cleaner than the duct tape method most people use!

Gregwor whats up! - it's looks like he may have used screws and big washers (you can sort of make them out from the photos) - I did the same thing on my silencer boxes. If you get a chance I had a question on my thread you may or may/not know the answer too (actually regarding silencer boxes).

Hey guys. Sorry I hadn't seen your post Greg.

yeah I just used 1 1/4" screws with fender washers. 4 per side.

yeah I just used 1 1/4" screws with fender washers. 4 per side.

any glue as well or just the screws/washers?

no glue, just a screw!