John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Keiths' right about his concern - however there may be a way to work around this, I'll see if I can do a sketch -

Your other questions - you're right, things are only simple AFTER you've made all the mistakes This is why I rarely complain to people about redundant questions. They're not redundant if you're not sure what to do, and I doubt I'll ever have enough time to organize things here well enough so I don't need to repeat myself

If you've left gaps between sheets the only deviation you'll need to do from standard mud/tape/sand operations is to use a bit more mud BEFORE the tape goes on - normal mud/tape operation is to put some mud on the joint, smooth it with the drywall knife, then dampen the tape and smooth it on OVER the mud, then a bit more mud and another smooth job. End result needs to be a level joint, or possibly a SLIGHT bulge so sanding afterward makes everything LEVEL and SMOOTH. By pressing mud INTO your gaps FIRST, you'll regain the mass in those gaps.

Offsetting joints and changing orientation of sheets from layer to layer ensures that there aren't two joints in the same area to weaken the isolation.

Taping and mudding when done - no problem. For inside corners, use some of the newer, thin plastic flex corner and do as light a mud in the actual corner as possible (press harder on the knife where it's smoothing the mud in the actual corner) Floor and ceiling moldings need to be floated off ONE of the adjoining surfaces - one way is to screw molding to the bottom RC on an RC type wall, keeping the molding about 3/16" away from the floor. For double-framed walls this isn't necessary.

Door - definitely trade the paneled door for a thicker, solid slab. Exterior doors generally have better seals, but depending on yours you may still need a separate seal kit intended for better sound isolation.

http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/prod ... l_kits.asp

Here's one plan for the ceiling -

Sharward:

Steve, you'll have to elaborate on your "number of reasons" because I'm at a loss to understand the rationale behind your hesitation to do this area correctly.

If you eliminate a big chunk of drywall, you are in essence creating a large hole in your isolation. Do not make the mistake of thinking that eliminating 4% of your first layer of drywall will affect your isolation by the same percentage -- the cost in terms of iso is far greater.

If you don't believe me, ask anyone who didn't use good door seals.

You're right and I NEED to this right. Time, stress and $$ are taking a toll. Not necessarily this room but the entire basement project. So I need to step back and figure this out correctly. Thanks for the kick in the rear!

However, I got somewhat lucky last night in that I was able to "shim" the pipes flush to the joists (it took some doing) and the backside of the rock won’t touch. BUT, I am going to take knighfly’s advice by using the “latch cover” method as he described.

Thanks,
Steve

knightfly

Keiths' right about his concern - however there may be a way to work around this, I'll see if I can do a sketch -

This is great (thanks for the terrific sketch). It will use method today and I’ll get some pics up tonight hopefully.

Your other questions - you're right, things are only simple AFTER you've made all the mistakes This is why I rarely complain to people about redundant questions. They're not redundant if you're not sure what to do, and I doubt I'll ever have enough time to organize things here well enough so I don't need to repeat myself

I’m really thankful to you and the others for taking your personal time to assist me. I’m sure you get thanks all the time (at least I hope you do). This really is a remarkable “place” and I don’t know how you guys do it. But it certainly shows your character as a person and again, thank you very much!

I think everything else makes sense (mudding, doors). I'm sure I'll run into some situation where it gets confusing though Well, back down into the basement I go and I'll update tonight.

Thanks again!
Steve

No problem at all, foggie-Steve.. I'm just "paying it forward" so to speak (so to type? ). Butt-kickings are only fun when they work, and I'm glad it did in this case!

Nice workaround, knightfly-Steve. Why the heck didn't I think of that? Oh yeah, that's right -- I'm the "mere mortal" here.

--Keith

Thing are coming together However, I’m still a bit, ahem, foggie (no pun intended) understanding the final mudding process.

Specifically the corners. Knightfly explained the process previously and to use the plastic corner bead stuff etc. Questions:

- Generally, what should the max gap distance be in the corners (where the rock meets)?
- Is the use of the plastic corner bead a must?
- In one of the corners (where two adjacent walls meet) I have a gap of about .5in . This would appear to be pretty large I know? Any suggestions here. Should I fill it with caulk and then put the corner bead in, tape / mud?

Just to clarify, when all is said and done, I will have the corners mudded with the use of the plastic corner bead but the perimeter’s (floor and ceiling) will have a caulk “seam”? Which means (for aesthetics) I will need to put “standard” baseboard trim on the floor (making sure to mount into the RC) and for the ceiling use a corner round or whatever ceiling molding desired to cover up the caulk? I’m confused, doesn’t the mudding of the corners “tie” everything together (couple)? Why not mud the perimeters as well? (just wanting to understand the acoustical "physics" here)

Thanks!
Steve

Any thoughts on my questions above?

Thanks,
Steve

Update for anyone interested. I’m pretty much done As to my previous questions, I caulked the heck out of every nook and cranny again as there was some separation in the gaps (settling) and then mudded. I textured the ceiling and have to put one more coat of paint on.

Things I have left are to apply the baseboard trim and get some oak trim for the window (sill, sides, top etc). I’m debating whether or not to even put trim (quarter round) for the ceiling (where ceiling meets wall). Aesthetically it won’t look the greatest but I textured these corners pretty good and after I put the second coat of paint on (I’ll cut the paint in as close as possible) it’s fairly hard to tell there is a gap.

Also I still have to design an access panel for the humidistat (see page one for ref). Basically a “laundry shoot” type of door/size. I currently have a 6inch x 6inch square cut out in the rock where this door will be. This was one of the variables I had to deal with and it really bites as far as more potential for transmission loss. Obviously I’ll try and make this as sound and sealed as possible. I haven’t quite figured out the design for this yet. Any thoughts are welcome

For the door I ended up special ordering an exterior solid core flush oak door mounted in a 2x6 exterior door frame. This sucker is HEAVY It cost about $300. For my situation I think it will be better than the interior six panel or flush type that I initially ordered and even the exterior metal type I was considering. It should be delivered later this week.

After the door gets installed/stained, the carpet will be ordered. Probably a tight nit berber with the best pad available. Other than that I was going to make a “modular” plug for the window (4’x4’). Something that I can mount or put in and out when the room is being used/not being used.

I’ll try and get some pics up

Steve