John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

berry berry nice! it will be interesting once you get the seals up to see how much sound is getting blocked

Lookin' good!

The only thing I'd point out is leaving a gap at the bottom of the gypsum @ the floor... caulk and backer rod at that point also helps with decoupling that gypsum from the floor. (e.g reducing flanking)

(You might actually have enough of a gap and are already using backer rod/caulk @ the floor... but using a much smaller backer rod than I did.)

gullfo wrote:berry berry nice! it will be interesting once you get the seals up to see how much sound is getting blocked

Hi Glenn !

Thank-you very much. Before I get the stops & seals in I was gonna wait until the
interior of the room gets the drywall mudding ... and maybe painting.
The thinking is to stay with the 'maple' wood for the door stops ... and even for the
1x that seal/ cover the drywall/ jamb seam.

Glenn, I must say, the more I studied the modified 'Super Door' design that you provided,
the more sense it made, with ALL indications that this IMPROVES upon Rods' design. The
dual walls are COMPLETELY separated. ALSO ... that was a HUGE call on going with Maple
for the jambs. The price was reasonable ... but the quality and strength of this wood is
really beautiful. My carpenter was very please to see this choice. The solid birch door is
also quite nice too. We have some NICE grain pattern. Definitely NOT going to paint
the door nor jamb ... it was suggested maybe a shellac, with some type of grain highlighter
added to it. I'd like it to look like furniture

MadMax ... hey, as always, thanks for checking on me! I enjoy hearing from ya

Yes ... the perimeter spacing off the floor/ ceiling/ and the adjacent walls do have backer rod
and caulking on BOTH layers. As you know, Glenn was very specific about this technique,
and I tried to implement this throughout the build.
Although I have/had a collection of backer rod ... my preference has been to try to stay
with the 3/8" variety ... but I confess ... a piece or two of 1/2" was needed in spots. It's
amazing just how difficult real material can be in 3 dimensional space

Today we had an opportunity for a short build session, which thankfully my brother was
able to help install the 2nd drywall/ GreenGlue layer ... much easier with two people!

While waiting for him to arrive, I went ahead and installed a few 'sway' braces around the
door hinge and closer side. Here's one of the pix I was completely sure if they were really needed ... but then, I've not dealt with a door of
this girth I remember the conversation I had with the designer from PAC International
[geesh ... I can't remember his name, nor the company ... it's been THAT long ago]. But
he detailed a recommended placement. So along with the wall sway braces that went in
before, I added 2 on the hinge side, and 1 on the closer side. Maybe it's overkill, but I had
the pieces, and while the wall was opened I figured I didn't want to regret NOT putting them
in. Hard to tell from my lousy photos.

Interior 2nd layer drywall ... loading up the pieces with GG ! With the drywall install, I went into sealing prep mode ... backer rod ... between the floor
and wall, wall/ceiling, and between wall and jamb. Side note ... even though we had to hold for the door before completing the drywall, when
this time came, we STILL maintained the 'interlocking drywall' concept throughout.

Before caulking, I wanted to protect the maple jamb, so I first covered it with blue painters
tape. Finally ... and again with the lousy pixs ... we have an interior room with 2 layers sealed.
When everything is dry, I'll need to recheck all this ... but happy to report that this final
layer is flush to the jamb as diagrammed. The door molding will sit snuggly across the wall
and jamb If all is good ... and passes YOUR inspection ... my hope is to get the 'mudders' in for the
first round. I know you must have given these instructions a hundred times of more ... but
for those of us dazed & confused from smelling caulk fumes

I'm having drywallers do this, and more than likely, they'll go with what they would do for
any regular room ... and THAT's where I need to have your guidance again.

Here's what I thinking .... for the 2 corner kickouts in my room, I was hoping to have a
rounded corner look. It was mentioned they could use a plastic 'bullnose' corner. Is this
good ???
Mud & taping. What is the preferred application. Walls to ceiling connection, Wall-wall,
Floor to wall ... wall coming to jamb ?!?!? Plus all the seams on the walls & ceiling.

What gets taped? NOT ???
Anything special about the mud ??
The corners ... do they use 'beading'.

Once again ... the 'student' humbly seeks guidance.

Sincerely.

the bullnose is ok or just normal corner bead. tape and mud on the inner corners. i like to use water and a scrub brush to finish the spackle to get a nice smooth blended finish without a lot of dust.

Hi Glenn,

Alright ! Thanks for the 'less dust' tip

Ahhh ... always more questions.

Since the floor to wall 'topic' came up I know wonder ... how would you want
the 'mudding' to be done at the floor to wall area ?

From what I recall ... mud up to the caulk ... then, maybe, recaulk that bottom seal.

Flooring ... I leaning heavy toward the fiberfloor [ArmStrong - 'Cushionstep'] ...
Also considering some type of shoe molding. But I understand that you want this 'suspended'
slightly above the floor & then caulked at the very bottom.

Just to be sure I'm understanding right & getting the proper materials.

Big Thanks!!!!

I prefer a sponge (2" X 6") to smooth the mud, if dust is an issue.

xSpace wrote:I prefer a sponge (2" X 6") to smooth the mud, if dust is an issue.

I did buy one of those sponges.

Dust is definitely an issue. I do blame an incident of shopvac-ing up a work site for my
brother with lots of drywall dust to a case of pneumonia. That was NOT fun.

I will insist that the drywaller try to minimize the dust.

We are looking at Thur or Fri for them to come in, but I still need to know about the floor
to wall issue. How should I direct them on this ???

Big Thanks again!

Not certain what the question is directly, but you want to elevate the sheetrock so that it is not sitting directly onto the flooring. Then caulk, or if the gap is big enough, backer-rod of the appropriate size for the void and caulk.

If I understand you correctly, the drywall guys can ignore the floor. You only wanna cover that wall::floor corner with something decorative, like a base molding, over a final layer of unpainted acoustic caulk.

I covered every bit of my gypsum with another coupla' layers of material, so I really can't advise you about attaching the base mold any other way than to glue it and tack it in place.

But just paint as close as you dare to the floor, leaving caulking for last. Then caulk that joint, and put the base mold over it. done.

HTH

Max

p.s. It's nice to do it right the first time, ain't it?? (Re working stuff just kills ya')

keep after it, lookin' good!

"If I understand you correctly, the drywall guys can ignore the floor. You only wanna cover that wall::floor corner with something decorative, like a base molding, over a final layer of unpainted acoustic caulk."

What is this saying Max? Drywall guys do not do trim...

Sorry for the confusion

Here's my question

When they mud the walls ... the point of question is where the wall and floor meet.?

Right now, BOTH layers of drywall are +1/4" gapped off the floor. In the gap is backer rod
and then caulking.

When they 'mud' ... are they to cover my floor/wall gap with mud [on top of the caulking]?
or are they to mud UP TO the caulking? In otherwords ... STOP at the caulk where the floor
and walls are?

I'm not sure what I just wrote makes any sense , but as MadMax points out ... its'
more fun to do it right the first time.

For now ... the shoe molding idea is just that ... so I leave that for the moment. I just want
to be clear that we get the mudding correct.

Thanks!!

Everybody makes more since now that I actually read that someone was thinking of mudding the floor/wall area of sheetrock

To answer that question, no sir, not in a hundred years has this ever been part of the finish aspect of mudding.

The backer rod and caulk are all that is required.

so all that spackle i got on my floor was for nought?

ok ... forget mud on the floor ... I'm sure there will be plenty when they hit the ceiling

My question is MUCH more stupid than that

At the BASE of the wall ... do we leave the caulking EXPOSED, or do we mud over it

Thanks.

RJHollins wrote:ok ... forget mud on the floor ... I'm sure there will be plenty when they hit the ceiling

My question is MUCH more stupid than that

At the BASE of the wall ... do we leave the caulking EXPOSED, or do we mud over it

Thanks.

Lets get it perfectly beaten to death...

DO NOT APPLY MUD OVER THE CAULK!

LEAVE THE CAULK EXPOSED!