Slat wall question

[PAULIII]

Wow! I don't know how I did that, but somehow erased all my pics from the host. Oh well, I got the graph back (2 posts up) so you can see the variation between the Yamaha and Behringer monitors.

As far as EQing...A cut is required on the Behringers at 63Hz to get to "0", but a boost is called for on the NS 10s. They're both directly opposite. The same for 630Hz. How do you find the happy EQ medium.

Still Confused
PAULIII

[knightfly]

How do you find the happy EQ medium -

Maybe run both speaks in parallel?? (JK; I would suspect something in the Behringer analyzer may be causing this. Are you testing with the speaker woofers at the exact same position in all three axes? Steve

[Maxx]

Then, and ONLY then, if the room still had problems, would I reach for "surgical" tools such as panel, Helmholtz, etc - otherwise, you stand almost as good a chance a DAMAGING the room's response as FIXING it....

..Bottom line - I'd wait til you HEAR and MEASURE before you get excited about building any treatments - Steve

I'm a bit confused here.

I'm sure you are right Steve, but why there are slatresonators drawn in allmost all John's designs for a small control rooms if there is a good chance to damage the sound rather than make it better?

I'm sure there are plenty of people (including me) building small rooms, that dont have access to any measuring equipment. So only way to decide the slot widths etc. is to use the Exel calculators to find out the problem frequencies.

Or maybe in mixing the the wall absorber in johns site and slat resonator, alltough they look same to me. I'm talking about these:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm
http://www.johnlsayers.com/Pages/Bluebear.htm

I'm just starting finally build my basement and i was going to make 10degree splayed 255cm long slat-wall-units to both sides of the mixing position. I'm using the exel calculator and modecalc to find out the frequencies where to target the slot widths. Will the splaying be enough to create RFZ? I dont want put plain 703 to the side walls as i dont like too dead sound. My front wall will be covered with 10cm 703 and also the ceiling is sloped towards the front with 5cm 703 so there is quite a lot absortion around the mixing position.

Also i was wondering if i could put the cloth TOP of the slats not under like it usually should be. Reason for this is that i dont want to leave the wood visible. I want to create solid looking surfaces for aesthetic reasons by putting large coloured cloth over the slat wall.

Maxx

[Maxx]

Anyone?

[knightfly]

You bring up a valid point; it's my belief that one of the reasons John's rooms work is the VARYING depth of the slots; I think that, since most rooms tend to have too much mids anyway, just pulling out a wider frequency range in that band works well enough not to cause noticeable problems (at least, not very often) - I would still prefer for most cases to only add treatment after the room is complete, and only after listening/measuring. Building things takes time and material, so I tend not to rush into things til I know it's needed.

A splayed slat wall would need to be QUITE angled to perform RFZ in most rooms - but to know how MUCH of an angle, you would need to do a basic ray trace diagram (CAD program at least) to see where reflections are going.

Somewhere I posted a drawing of a way to do ray tracing, but gotta get to bed now - if you do a search on those words, you should find it.

Cloth OVER a slat is fine, but NOT as a replacement for the INNER cloth - that will be necessary whether or not you cover the absorber, it's part of the way they work. You want the cloth AND the insulation up against the slats, and usually about half of the total depth should be insulation.

HTH... Steve

[Maxx]

Thanks steve,

Okay I will not try to create RFZ with angled slats since it will take too much space to be efficient. I will just put 703 to the side walls.

About the cloth inside the slat resonator, what is actually consirided as cloth?

Since you are using OC 703 which is a building insulation and i'm using Ecophon Akusto boards which are sold for acoustic purposes only. Those have a kind of cloth surface on other side. That cloth looks good in black boards what i have and is not meant to be hidden under cloth etc.

Heres a link for the finnish product page:
http://www.ecophon.fi/templates/eco_Nor ... _10985.asp

This is allmost the same product in english page:
http://www.ecophon.co.uk/templates/eco_ ... __8754.asp