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Long slat design. Will it work?

Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:07 pm
by jason baker
I'm trying to reduce the parallel walls in my room. I want to make some 8 foot long wide range absobtion slot resinators and put them in my front corners. I've seen plans for shorter ones but not real long. I will make 4 internal cavitys then attach the differnts size slats with the variable sized gaps.

Instead of 4 -----2 foot cavitys should I turn the fiber glass side ways and just have 2 -- ---- 4 foot cavitys.

Should the slats hang freely for the entire 8 feet or nailed to suports at some sort of support at 2 or 4 foot intervales

Take a look at this plan, Will it work well?

Thanks Jason

Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 3:16 am
by AVare
Nail them every supprt.

I know of no data on which is better, but personally I would go with 4 cavities. Lower LF absorption from the corner cavities

Good luck!
Andre

Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 3:36 am
by jason baker
Thanks for the advice

Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:32 am
by laptoppop
Check out my room in the studios section off John's main page

( http://www.johnlsayers.com/Studio/Mainp ... toppop.htm )

There's a couple of huge advantages to making 4 smaller resonators instread of one giant box with partitions.

First, weight. At least the way I built mine, these puppies are **HEAVY**. I can move one around just fine, but if all four were connected, it would be way too heavy.

Second, depth. Do you really need the boxes to be *that* deep? Can you compensate with thinner slots? If so, you get a lot more space in your room.

One thing I found VERY helpful was to use piano washers as temporary spacers to space the slots apart properly. With the help of Steve and others, I figured out the slats and slots, and then I could use piano washers for the width of the slots. That let me push the slats right up against the previous slat with the washers giving me consistent spacing.

Just some thoughts,
-lee-

Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:04 am
by AVare
Lee:

Thanks for the tip about using washers as spacers. We all have different "tricks" that we use and don't really of to pass on. Thanks again!

Andre

Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 8:51 pm
by knightfly
Washers come in different thicknesses; there's also coins of different thickness, thin plywood scraps, etc - but some type of spacer scheme will make sure your slats don't look wierd from varying gap widths - I wouldn't build these without using spacers.

I also agree very heartily with pop's comments on weight and separate sections - and each different depth range will help widen and smooth the response so it's more natural sounding... Steve

how about this

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 7:07 am
by peegee
So that i can make my space correct angles, i would like to do a similar thing that Jason suggested, although not quite as long.

Up the top of my control room, i have a space not quite as big as jasons, but am considering building a large slot about 6.5' wide, and about 1' thich at the thick end.

My question is, would i get a negative result to do this? - or is it that its just not quite as good to do it this way compared to haveing a couple of shorter ones?

Thanks...

Thanks

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:33 am
by knightfly
If there's no need for portability, the only other reason to separate would be if you wanted better LF absorption from the deeper part; then, you could either build two boxes or just put a septum (divider) at about the center of the unit - this would make the deeper part more isolated from the shallower part, and maybe improve LF trapping of that section a bit.

The downside is, you would LESSEN the LF absorption of the shallower section by doing this, and this wouldn't be a good idea for an absorber located behind speakers; for that, you'd want more broadband and deeper frequency response all across that wall... Steve