John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Perhaps there is a thread about the space between two door's frames. How can I fill it? Polysthyrene is ok? Rockwool covered by cloth? what can I do with this gap?

This is just a suggestion, but maybe do it similarly to a window with celotex in the middle. Check out this.

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... highlight=

That should help reduce flanking as long as you only glue the one side. Seems like it should work to me. Hope that was helpful at least a little.

Tim Wheat

Hey, bump for me to hugo inside...I've wondered about that myself!

You got any other pics of your progress?

Thanx
Stan

I would think anything that breathes (cloth?) would work... Nothing solid. Or you could leave it open. I don't think there's any need to cover it from an isolation perspective. That's my thought. Perhaps others will disagree...

Posted a while back -

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=22297

Also added to REFERENCE section, 10-9-05

My favourite technique is to have wood span almost the entire gap, except for a 1/4" gap in the middle between the two doors. Then carpet to cover the wood and the gap (floor, walls, ceiling). The carpet also acts as an absorber in the cavity. For better isolation, use carpet on the threshold only, and 2" of rockwool/fiberglass on the walls/ceiling of the air lock.

Only problem with carpet is that some types are REALLY stiff; I would think you'd get a bit more coupling between leaves than optimum. Other than that, or if you use a SOFT backed carpet that's still porous, sure... Steve

Where did you get your doors? I've been trying to figure out what PW did to make his doors because I know that screwing the hinge into the side of MDF will not support the door for very long. He mentioned that he put hardwood inserts in but there's no pictures.

len

Here's everything you wanted to know about Paul Woodlock's doors.

I have seen that post before but while he says he "routed out for hard wood inserts" you can't see any evidence of it any where in the pictures. It appears that the outside door panel MDF is continuous. Did he only have the inserts in the middle layer? None of those pictures show that detail. I was thinking that what he did was make the middle layer narrower by 4 or 5 inches and then put a hard wood strip 4 or 5 inches wide the entire length of the door which was then covered by the inner most and outer most layers.

That would explain why you can't see any routing in the photos. The only problem I saw with this was that the surface to screw the hinges into would only be 3/4" wide and I think you'd need more meat for the screws to bite into.

len

You can post your question on his thread -- I'm sure he wouldn't mind answering.

He didn't mind but he pointed me to the same thread you did. I've got an idea how to do it and I'll take lots of pictures. If it works out, I might make them for others.

len