John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Well after months spent searching this site, I decided to keep things simple and just follow Johns designs for DIY bass traps. I figured I'd post some pictures of the process for anyone who is looking to do the same thing. Also any feedback (which will probably be mostly critical if I know you guys) is welcome as well. Especially before I close off the tops of the traps. Enjoy!

For some reason I cant seem to add a description by each picture.
When I type in a comment nothing shows up when I post. Anyway this next set is of assembly and installation.

If you guys notice the picture that shows the top of the trap, you'll notice I have a unique situation. My ceiling has a four sided slope(kinda like lookin up at a hip roof from below) this leaves a small triangular gap above the top lid of the trap. My plan is to fill it with insulation and special cut the final trim piece to fit. Any objections?

Insulation glued, taped then secured with fender washers and screwed to plywood strips.

Please note in regards to the 1x I used for my project. I ordered construction grade doug fir because I prefer to cover the traps with cloth on the outside (John plans call for cloth on the inside) just personal preference as I think the exposed wood looks a bit "country".

Hey man congratulations.

I'm thinking on building the same slat resonators for my studio.

What measures for slats, slots and cavity depth you used, and slat width too?


Thanks.
Ed.

Nice Job!

Just a question...

I see you didn't put your cloth behind your slats. Any particular reason why? Cosmetic reasons?

Thanx!

derekdun101 wrote:Please note in regards to the 1x I used for my project. I ordered construction grade doug fir because I prefer to cover the traps with cloth on the outside (John plans call for cloth on the inside) just personal preference as I think the exposed wood looks a bit "country".

Yeah I dont like the country wood look.

What measures for slats, slots and cavity depth you used, and slat width too?

I went 7/16,1/4,1/8 for the gaps (just used drill bits as spacers)
The slats are 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4.
Lengths (hypotenuse of a 21"side x 23"side) of slats was 31-5/8".
I took an inch off of Johns dimensions to avoid having to carve my outlet covers that were already in place.

Stay tuned as I'll be posting the pics of the rear wall corner traps and also various mid and high range traps per Ethan Winers website. I hope to have most of this completed over the next week so pics should be up soon.

I don't quite understand what you've done with the insulation/board things. In the pictures I've seen of these things, I've never seen a board inside of the insulation - just two layers of rigid insulation sort of self supported inside. The arrangement you have looks kind of like bass hangers.

Have I missed something in the construction details?

len

I don't quite understand what you've done with the insulation/board things. In the pictures I've seen of these things, I've never seen a board inside of the insulation - just two layers of rigid insulation sort of self supported inside. The arrangement you have looks kind of like bass hangers

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ss+hangers
The info on this link lead me to do it the way I did. Isn't a bass trap a bass trap?
For the rear traps (not shown in my pictures) I used 703 (rigid insulation). I'll let you guys know if the two methods makes any difference.
It's done now so if I did it wrong it's too late now.
Let me know.

Aloha,

I believe Aaronw also did his front soffit/trap this way as well (around page 28.) http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=839

Aloha

What's the functional difference between a slat resonator and a standard corner trap with insulation exposed (and without slats)? Am I wrong in thinking the slat resonator provides more reflection?

Nice build BTW!

Jay