UAN - new Control Room build
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gullfo
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Re: UAN - new Control Room build
if you cannot move them, work around them. fill in as much as you can there and make sure to seal things thoroughly.
hope your mom is better.
hope your mom is better.
Glenn
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RJHollins
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Re: UAN - new Control Room build
Hi everyone,
Well ... things have kinda settled down over here. We have Mom back from the hospital ... which is the very good news. The doctors have ruled out many things, but not really able to identify the cause of what was bothering her so bad.
She still has times of discomfort, but it seems to come and go, rather than continuous. The suspicion is her having switch over to Advil. We have several members of the family [including the 1 time I took 'Liquid Advil'] that have had a very bad reaction to it ! For me, it was an intense burning in my chest ... thought I'd have to go to the emergency room. Anyway ... we are glad she's home. After having double knee replacement [which went very well], she's been through alot !
It has been hard to get much done with all this, but it looks like I can start getting back to this project.
OH ... last night & today ... we get hit with nearly 4 feet of snow
Somewhere in the driveway I have 2 other cars that I'm looking for. I dug mine out ... the back should be better in a couple weeks
Anyway .... important question please.
I have an order of 5/8" drywall coming in for the ceiling 'beef-up'. During the down time, I've been reading many threads here [especially 'Crams' wonderfully documented build - which had similar issue like I to deal with].
What I've NOT been able to find [exactly] is the best way to get these 2 layers [plus GG] up there !
My thought was ... could [or should] I use a few 2" drywall screws to pass through the 1st DW layer into the 1" Foamular and finally into the upper deck ??? I've been trying to think of a way that I can overlap the 2 layers for the best seal, and would sure appreciate how best to do this. I don't want to create an issue or make a huge blunder with this critical step in isolation.
Thanks so much !!!!
Well ... things have kinda settled down over here. We have Mom back from the hospital ... which is the very good news. The doctors have ruled out many things, but not really able to identify the cause of what was bothering her so bad.
It has been hard to get much done with all this, but it looks like I can start getting back to this project.
OH ... last night & today ... we get hit with nearly 4 feet of snow
Anyway .... important question please.
I have an order of 5/8" drywall coming in for the ceiling 'beef-up'. During the down time, I've been reading many threads here [especially 'Crams' wonderfully documented build - which had similar issue like I to deal with].
What I've NOT been able to find [exactly] is the best way to get these 2 layers [plus GG] up there !
My thought was ... could [or should] I use a few 2" drywall screws to pass through the 1st DW layer into the 1" Foamular and finally into the upper deck ??? I've been trying to think of a way that I can overlap the 2 layers for the best seal, and would sure appreciate how best to do this. I don't want to create an issue or make a huge blunder with this critical step in isolation.
Thanks so much !!!!
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gullfo
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Re: UAN - new Control Room build
you can hold it up with some drywall screws on the side on angles until you can add the cleats. or through it although it ends up being more caulking. just start each section offset by say 2' which should be enough.
Glenn
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RJHollins
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Re: UAN - new Control Room build
First shipment of drywall coming tomorrow afternoon [for the ceiling beef-up].
Saturday the electrician returns to relocate a few remaining elec lines &
phone lines.
Just ordered Rod's 2nd edition book. Figuring that some things have evolved since
his 2006 release, I thought it best to get. Also to extend my thanks & support.
Speaking of which ... time for me to get another donation in to this site & the truly
wonderful people here.
Sincere THANKS !
oh .... and CONGRATS to Glenn and the mod position !
I've been following along on many of the other design & build threads for learning and
inspiration.
Again ... Thank-you!
Saturday the electrician returns to relocate a few remaining elec lines &
phone lines.
Just ordered Rod's 2nd edition book. Figuring that some things have evolved since
his 2006 release, I thought it best to get. Also to extend my thanks & support.
Speaking of which ... time for me to get another donation in to this site & the truly
wonderful people here.
Sincere THANKS !
oh .... and CONGRATS to Glenn and the mod position !
I've been following along on many of the other design & build threads for learning and
inspiration.
Again ... Thank-you!
-
gullfo
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- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:55 am
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RJHollins
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- Posts: 437
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
ok ...
1st shipment of drywall was delivered. Man, those double sheets are heavy!
Had my electrician over last nite ... moved the remaining lines that were in the way.
This morning I ordered a 'Basement WatchDog Battery Back-up sump pump', they call it the 'BIG DOG'
They're not cheap, but I wanted to have some type of redundant system in case of emergency. This seem a good option if the primary pump should fail, plus I'd have a catch system if the power goes out.
A meeting with my 'contractor' brother yesterday. Looked over things done so far, and to the next aspect ... the beef-up. I decided to let 'Bro' take over as site contractor. He knows the people best suited for the job, and the prices. I'll stick to planning, quality control
, and handling details like caulking. Who said 2 college degrees wouldn't come useful sometime
Oh ... the 2nd edition of Rods' book arrived ... and got my 'donate' in to this great site, and the great people here sharing their wisdom & experience [and patience]!!
Sincerely ... Thank-you!
1st shipment of drywall was delivered. Man, those double sheets are heavy!
Had my electrician over last nite ... moved the remaining lines that were in the way.
This morning I ordered a 'Basement WatchDog Battery Back-up sump pump', they call it the 'BIG DOG'
A meeting with my 'contractor' brother yesterday. Looked over things done so far, and to the next aspect ... the beef-up. I decided to let 'Bro' take over as site contractor. He knows the people best suited for the job, and the prices. I'll stick to planning, quality control
Oh ... the 2nd edition of Rods' book arrived ... and got my 'donate' in to this great site, and the great people here sharing their wisdom & experience [and patience]!!
Sincerely ... Thank-you!
-
gullfo
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Re: UAN - new Control Room build
cheers! remember to post photos from beginning to end so the voyeurs ^d^d^d^d^d^d experts can watch your work 
Glenn
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RJHollins
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- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
yeah ... I shoulda grabbed some pics of the fork lift coming down the driveway, but when I DIDN'T see a second helper to carry this stuff in, well ... documenting the ensuing activity wasn't going to be pretty. Are there any acoustician/chiropractors on board ?!?!?
Today I got my confirmation order for the 'WatchDog' sump pump ... should be here in a few.
Also, had a nice talk with Eric over at the 'Sound Isolation' store. We double check my numbers and order 4 cases of GreenGlue for the room. Should be here Wed or Thur. I was also looking to order some of their Silent seal caulk, but it was suggested that a good latex-silicon caulk would be as effective. He mentioned that the new formula for the SilentCaulk is not the same as it was before the product changed hands. Hows that for customer service and honesty.
We also had a talk about drywall [something he was very familiar with], and was surprised that the Type-X mildew resist was still being sold. He said that its' fine to use, but that it cost more, not shown to resist mildew anymore than regular drywall, and that its' fire rating only needed to pass 1 of 10 test ... which it did. He also suggested that local codes may be driving the continued use of it. Bottom line ... fine to use ... cost more. So there you have it
Another item we talked about were the 'sway' braces. In particular, the DC-04 bracket from PAC International. No one has really screamed loudly enough, either way, as to use or NOT use them. I know my room is small, but not having built something quite like this room, I possibly wouldn't know till it was too late! The clips are $5 ea. and figure 2 to maybe 3 per wall. [i know ... pizza/beer money for the crew ... or more donations to this forum - both will happen either way] ... I just don't want to have, NOR create, a structural or isolation issue.
anyway ... that's all that's fit ta print
thank-you!
Today I got my confirmation order for the 'WatchDog' sump pump ... should be here in a few.
Also, had a nice talk with Eric over at the 'Sound Isolation' store. We double check my numbers and order 4 cases of GreenGlue for the room. Should be here Wed or Thur. I was also looking to order some of their Silent seal caulk, but it was suggested that a good latex-silicon caulk would be as effective. He mentioned that the new formula for the SilentCaulk is not the same as it was before the product changed hands. Hows that for customer service and honesty.
We also had a talk about drywall [something he was very familiar with], and was surprised that the Type-X mildew resist was still being sold. He said that its' fine to use, but that it cost more, not shown to resist mildew anymore than regular drywall, and that its' fire rating only needed to pass 1 of 10 test ... which it did. He also suggested that local codes may be driving the continued use of it. Bottom line ... fine to use ... cost more. So there you have it
Another item we talked about were the 'sway' braces. In particular, the DC-04 bracket from PAC International. No one has really screamed loudly enough, either way, as to use or NOT use them. I know my room is small, but not having built something quite like this room, I possibly wouldn't know till it was too late! The clips are $5 ea. and figure 2 to maybe 3 per wall. [i know ... pizza/beer money for the crew ... or more donations to this forum - both will happen either way] ... I just don't want to have, NOR create, a structural or isolation issue.
anyway ... that's all that's fit ta print
thank-you!
-
RJHollins
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- Posts: 437
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
Just a fast update ...
More 'supplies' have arrived !
adding to the 24 sheets of drywall, furring strips in the garage ...
the 'BIG DOG' back-up sump pump is here ... got the battery & acid from Home Depot.
Today ... 4 cases of Green Glue came in.
Everything I've been buying lately is so d*mn heavy
Playing a Christmas party Fri night
Saturday is the starting schedule with the drywaller. The beef-up has been prepped, and
is ready to get the 1st layer up between the joist! My back made the decision to hire pros to handle the drywall duties
I'll be working the camera
and the shop vac.
More 'supplies' have arrived !
adding to the 24 sheets of drywall, furring strips in the garage ...
the 'BIG DOG' back-up sump pump is here ... got the battery & acid from Home Depot.
Today ... 4 cases of Green Glue came in.
Everything I've been buying lately is so d*mn heavy
Playing a Christmas party Fri night
Saturday is the starting schedule with the drywaller. The beef-up has been prepped, and
is ready to get the 1st layer up between the joist! My back made the decision to hire pros to handle the drywall duties
-
gullfo
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RJHollins
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- Posts: 437
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
Progress report ...
OK ... still have a buzz going from the smell of caulk
, lets see if that last brain cell can mustard some coherent description of recent activities.
Saturday the drywall guy came in. I had a stack of 5/8" in the garage waiting to go.
I had already caulked where the joist and flooring meet, I had laid in the 1" FORMULAR board as a bed, covering the protruding nails. I had also discovered some cold air leaking around the sill area, so I had a another caulking session. Ready for drywall.
My guy did a pretty good job I thought. He ripped through the drywall with the usual technique I've seen before ... the one were blood would be running from my fingers if I ever tried it ! But the callouses on his hands proved he'd been doing this for quite some time.
It was only a few hours of work. Besides the main run between the joist, I had him cut pieces for the side on the sill, and also above the Main Load Bearing Beam.
Above the MLB beam, there was only a butt end of the joist that runs to the other side, so I needed to add a furring strip so that those panels could be mounted. The new compound miter saw got its first action [even had the shop vac hooked to it] ... I was ripping pieces of lumber that I didn't even need !
... fun with power tools ... and the laser guide was spot on 
Afterward I started in with some backer rod in the sections that needed it. I used this rolling tool for repairing/mounting screens. The best $1.97 I coulda spent. It made it much easier to get the backer rod in.
From then on we were caulking. I tried to seal everything I could, from seams and edges, to wires that couldn't be moved. I used caulk from DAP called ALEX PLUS. It's an acrylic latex plus silicone [white], says it's good for 35 years.
Anyway ... of course, the shoulders and hands took a slight beating during this process, but I must say, even at this stage [which I wasn't sure would EVER happen] ... there has been a noticeable improvement in the isolation from upstairs!
Hope to get the drywall back in the next day or two for the 2nd layer WITH GreenGlue. In the meantime I've been checking over my caulking. I did need to touch up a few seams. I'd like to have time to be sure that this 1st layer is tight before we add the next layer.
Here's some pics.
OK ... still have a buzz going from the smell of caulk
Saturday the drywall guy came in. I had a stack of 5/8" in the garage waiting to go.
I had already caulked where the joist and flooring meet, I had laid in the 1" FORMULAR board as a bed, covering the protruding nails. I had also discovered some cold air leaking around the sill area, so I had a another caulking session. Ready for drywall.
My guy did a pretty good job I thought. He ripped through the drywall with the usual technique I've seen before ... the one were blood would be running from my fingers if I ever tried it ! But the callouses on his hands proved he'd been doing this for quite some time.
It was only a few hours of work. Besides the main run between the joist, I had him cut pieces for the side on the sill, and also above the Main Load Bearing Beam.
Above the MLB beam, there was only a butt end of the joist that runs to the other side, so I needed to add a furring strip so that those panels could be mounted. The new compound miter saw got its first action [even had the shop vac hooked to it] ... I was ripping pieces of lumber that I didn't even need !
Afterward I started in with some backer rod in the sections that needed it. I used this rolling tool for repairing/mounting screens. The best $1.97 I coulda spent. It made it much easier to get the backer rod in.
From then on we were caulking. I tried to seal everything I could, from seams and edges, to wires that couldn't be moved. I used caulk from DAP called ALEX PLUS. It's an acrylic latex plus silicone [white], says it's good for 35 years.
Anyway ... of course, the shoulders and hands took a slight beating during this process, but I must say, even at this stage [which I wasn't sure would EVER happen] ... there has been a noticeable improvement in the isolation from upstairs!
Hope to get the drywall back in the next day or two for the 2nd layer WITH GreenGlue. In the meantime I've been checking over my caulking. I did need to touch up a few seams. I'd like to have time to be sure that this 1st layer is tight before we add the next layer.
Here's some pics.
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gullfo
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Re: UAN - new Control Room build
that is some really nice workmanship! we'll keep your secret about the power tools being fun... 
Glenn
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RJHollins
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- Posts: 437
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
Well ... Thursday morning 10am my drywall guy comes back to put up the 2nd layer of 5/8" drywall with GreenGlue.
This will be my first experience using GG. I've been trying to figure the 'coverage' map for these ~14" wide strips. 11 of them are 8 footers, and 11 of them are 5'-8". I am having to guess the squeeze bar length, since I have never used a quart size caulking gun. My wild guess is that the bar travels 10.5" ... so I thinking 3.5" [travel] per 8' strip.
Anyway ... should be interesting. My drywall guy seems to have a good attitude about it
I knew I shoulda kept that abacus
This will be my first experience using GG. I've been trying to figure the 'coverage' map for these ~14" wide strips. 11 of them are 8 footers, and 11 of them are 5'-8". I am having to guess the squeeze bar length, since I have never used a quart size caulking gun. My wild guess is that the bar travels 10.5" ... so I thinking 3.5" [travel] per 8' strip.
Anyway ... should be interesting. My drywall guy seems to have a good attitude about it
I knew I shoulda kept that abacus
-
RJHollins
- Senior Member
- Posts: 437
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
Progress report.
2nd layer of drywall was installed between the rafters, making a GreenGlue sandwich.
We did the overlap seams by some 2' as Glenn recommended.
All in all it went smoothly. The GG was rather easy to apply, and posed no problem to mount.
Jim, my drywall guy, was great. Without much breaks, the two of us knocked it out in about 3 hours.
Next to do will be caulking the sides, mudding the screws, and then installing the furring strips. I do have 2 Christmas parties to play ...
one on the Eve, and the other Sunday. Looks like I'll be working on my Xmas present Christmas day !
I would like to get an insulation order in Monday, and get these bins filled !
Just one photo to post tonite.
2nd layer of drywall was installed between the rafters, making a GreenGlue sandwich.
We did the overlap seams by some 2' as Glenn recommended.
All in all it went smoothly. The GG was rather easy to apply, and posed no problem to mount.
Jim, my drywall guy, was great. Without much breaks, the two of us knocked it out in about 3 hours.
Next to do will be caulking the sides, mudding the screws, and then installing the furring strips. I do have 2 Christmas parties to play ...
one on the Eve, and the other Sunday. Looks like I'll be working on my Xmas present Christmas day !
I would like to get an insulation order in Monday, and get these bins filled !
Just one photo to post tonite.
-
RJHollins
- Senior Member
- Posts: 437
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Orchard Park, NY
Re: UAN - new Control Room build
ok ... the 2nd layer of 5/8" drywall has been GGlued, screwed, caulked, and pasted.
Funny ... the pictures don't look much different than the 1st layer install
Next up will be the pile of furring strips .... and then more caulking
I am now able to crush walnuts with my bare hands ... just in time for the holidaze
I would like to get an insulation order in Monday. I'm thinking that the 'itch-free' attic stuff would be much nicer hanging over our heads during the building stage.
Question: The depth of the joist 'bins' from the drywall to the bottom of the joist ranges from 6 1/2" - 6 3/4". The new ceiling rafters will hang about 1/2" below the existing joist.
What 'R' number should I get ? And should this be 'faceless' ???"
Your guidance is much appreciated !
Funny ... the pictures don't look much different than the 1st layer install
Next up will be the pile of furring strips .... and then more caulking
I am now able to crush walnuts with my bare hands ... just in time for the holidaze
I would like to get an insulation order in Monday. I'm thinking that the 'itch-free' attic stuff would be much nicer hanging over our heads during the building stage.
Question: The depth of the joist 'bins' from the drywall to the bottom of the joist ranges from 6 1/2" - 6 3/4". The new ceiling rafters will hang about 1/2" below the existing joist.
What 'R' number should I get ? And should this be 'faceless' ???"
Your guidance is much appreciated !