1) derive the width of the rectangular boxes coming down from the waveform?
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2) derive where the rectangular boxes start from the waveform?
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Each woofer is 44 inches from the wall.knightfly wrote:If your room's length includes the depth of the rear trap, then your speakers would be in a null front to back that's the 4th harmonic @ 138 hZ; Width-wise, your speakers are as good as they can get - you forgot to list the height of your speakers or your head, so I can't say about any nulls in the vertical axis.
Your head is in another null of the same 4th harmonic of length, or 138 hZ - you should try moving your head rearward by about 4-6", and your speakers forward by about the same.
Heightwise, neither your ears or your woofers should be at 48", they should be either 40-42" high, or at 56-58" high. It's likely that the 40-42" will be more practical.
Hope that helps... Steve
I think you are right. We should follow your instructions.knightfly wrote:If your room's length includes the depth of the rear trap, then your speakers would be in a null front to back that's the 4th harmonic @ 138 hZ; Width-wise, your speakers are as good as they can get - you forgot to list the height of your speakers or your head, so I can't say about any nulls in the vertical axis.
Your head is in another null of the same 4th harmonic of length, or 138 hZ - you should try moving your head rearward by about 4-6", and your speakers forward by about the same.
Heightwise, neither your ears or your woofers should be at 48", they should be either 40-42" high, or at 56-58" high. It's likely that the 40-42" will be more practical.
Hope that helps... Steve
I suggest this is probably causing deep FWBIR nulling. http://www.mh-audio.nl/CancellationFreq.aspThe woofer is 36 inches from the front wall.
You are replying to a post that is nearly seven years old, Dan.DanDan wrote:I suggest this is probably causing deep FWBIR nulling. http://www.mh-audio.nl/CancellationFreq.aspThe woofer is 36 inches from the front wall.
DD
Yep. About a decade and a half too late, actually....Hey I realize this post is a little late
How did you figure that out? And a null for what frequency?but I would say your speakers are in a null
Which software? In what way would you use it to determine if he is in a null or not? Please explain....I'd recommend using computer software to help you more accurately map out where to place your speakers.
Woah! He's back!Now, the NOT quite so cool part - for the next couple YEARS, all this cool stuff (and more) needs to get crammed into a spare bedroom, while I figure out how I'm gonna do (and pay for) adding a 12'x48' addition onto my shop, tearing out a couple walls, building an outer frame(s) so my (finally, after 3 decades) old studio can go from a total of 432 square feet, to 1152 square feet, with room for ALL my toys (some of which were bought over 10 years ago, and are still in their boxes - and no, I have NOT yet slashed my wrists, sometimes anticipation just hasta be enough)
The "sorta" good news - that spare bedroom, altho small, isn't a TOTAL disaster (or won't be, when I move 1 desk and 3 HUGE bookshelves out of it) - I've attached a basic axial mode shot (my 20 yr old roomtune still works, for what it is)
- also, there's a 4.5'wide closet in the CENTER of what will be the back wall (behind mix position) that will likely get a pair of sliding rockwool "doors", open to get at stuff and closed to make noise :=)
This project is also turning into the kick in the ass I've needed to get around to tossing a bunch of antiquated crap (no, not me I hope) that I've hung onto for 'way too long - hoarders and small houses are Dante's version of Hell (Abandon all hope, ye who enter here - )
Gotta go, more crap to ditch; I hope everyone's well... Steve