Corner Trap Air Gap
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drummer9
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Corner Trap Air Gap
I have corner bass traps that go floor to ceiling made of OC 703- 6" thickness. Is there any advantage to moving them away from the corners so there is an air gap? Will I get better results with an air gap or should I leave them tight against the corners?
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gullfo
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
the absorber spans the corner? maybe fill in behind it with some lighter insulation - 15-24kg/m3. if you can get the span of around 950mm instead of 600mm (assuming here), then that would also help.
Glenn
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RJHollins
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
If I may tap in on this thread with related question, please.
If we are using the 'Chunky Corner' bass traps [2'x4'x2" cut into wedges & stacked floor
to ceiling] .... I wondered, too, if the wedge should go 'tight' into the corner ?
This would 'seem' to expose ONLY the single edge of the stack
This question shows my lack of knowledge/experience of the chunky corner trap design
Thanks for any insights and the preferred install placement!

If we are using the 'Chunky Corner' bass traps [2'x4'x2" cut into wedges & stacked floor
to ceiling] .... I wondered, too, if the wedge should go 'tight' into the corner ?
This would 'seem' to expose ONLY the single edge of the stack
This question shows my lack of knowledge/experience of the chunky corner trap design
Thanks for any insights and the preferred install placement!
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drummer9
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
Good to have you in the thread. I just installed a sub today so dealing with the bass buildup is a critical issue.
To further clarify my situation:
I have an entry door and electrical closet at each of the rear corners. So I have to have the rear traps away from the corners to accomodate the doors. I can run my front traps so they are touching the walls and can fill in the void behind them with some lighter insulation but can't do anything at the rear traps because of the doors.
I also changed the rear traps so they are doubled up (two 6" deep layers of OC 703) running floor to ceiling one in front of the other. Previously I had them side by side so they were 4' wide total. I have 4' 7" of space when I measure from the rear of the trap to the inside corner by the entry door and 4' 3" at the corner by the electrical door. I have a completely bare rear wall which hopefully I can treat and tame the bad freg. range of 120-160 Hz. I'm running pink noise and checking with a SA at the moment. Will post results in a bit.
To further clarify my situation:
I have an entry door and electrical closet at each of the rear corners. So I have to have the rear traps away from the corners to accomodate the doors. I can run my front traps so they are touching the walls and can fill in the void behind them with some lighter insulation but can't do anything at the rear traps because of the doors.
I also changed the rear traps so they are doubled up (two 6" deep layers of OC 703) running floor to ceiling one in front of the other. Previously I had them side by side so they were 4' wide total. I have 4' 7" of space when I measure from the rear of the trap to the inside corner by the entry door and 4' 3" at the corner by the electrical door. I have a completely bare rear wall which hopefully I can treat and tame the bad freg. range of 120-160 Hz. I'm running pink noise and checking with a SA at the moment. Will post results in a bit.
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gullfo
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drummer9
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
Photos of all four corners. I'll get a drawing up soon.
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gullfo
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
i think i would put some absorption on the door and the flat wall be the large absorber there plus a heavy drape to pull over the window/door as needed. consider wall-ceiling corners as options to span as well as vertical corners. the current corner absorbers look ok. some scattered absorption on the ceiling. if you're looking for more life, then consider polys - across corners, on the flat wall, door and even ceiling.
Glenn
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drummer9
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
A couple more photos. Wanted to clarify your recommendations for the back wall. I have a trap at the ceiling corner as seen in photo.
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gullfo
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
that's a good design - you should extend that around the wall if possible, leave some gaps can help increase the edge absorption.
Glenn
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drummer9
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
thanks glenn,
Got the idea from Ethan and Joel's sites.
On the back wall itself; what are your thoughts? I have about 10' of bare wall I can treat between the slider and the entry door. Putting a heavy drape for the slider is a good idea; wondering what to do for the remember of the wall.
Haven't had a chance to learn Sketch. Listening to the vinyl vault for some reference material for the new sub.
Room is:
L- 24" 2"
W- 19' 2 (On shorter half by drum kit. Other half is 21')
H 1- 7' 6" (On the half where the present mix position and drum kit are)
H 2 - 7' 4" (Back half)
HVAC plenum splits the ceiing down the middle. Drywall wrap around plenum is 3' 4" wide. Drops down 10"
Got the idea from Ethan and Joel's sites.
On the back wall itself; what are your thoughts? I have about 10' of bare wall I can treat between the slider and the entry door. Putting a heavy drape for the slider is a good idea; wondering what to do for the remember of the wall.
Haven't had a chance to learn Sketch. Listening to the vinyl vault for some reference material for the new sub.
Room is:
L- 24" 2"
W- 19' 2 (On shorter half by drum kit. Other half is 21')
H 1- 7' 6" (On the half where the present mix position and drum kit are)
H 2 - 7' 4" (Back half)
HVAC plenum splits the ceiing down the middle. Drywall wrap around plenum is 3' 4" wide. Drops down 10"
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Ro
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
to answer your question: corner filled absorbers (for low end) should not be moved away to create an airgap. More wool is better, fill it all.drummer9 wrote:I have corner bass traps that go floor to ceiling made of OC 703- 6" thickness. Is there any advantage to moving them away from the corners so there is an air gap? Will I get better results with an air gap or should I leave them tight against the corners?
For wall panels; yes space them the same size as the thickness of the wool for better results. Or double the thickness of the wool
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gullfo
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Re: Corner Trap Air Gap
i would just span the ceiling-wall corners and on the walls - some polys made from 3mm plywood arc'd about 150mm-200mm deep and filled (not packed) with light insulation (15-20kg/m3).
Glenn