Hi, new guy has a question...

[jake-owa]

I have been thinking about wall designs for cheap.
I have a neat idea but I have no clue if it will make any difference or not.
I will be making the control room wall facing the studio of two seperate 2X4 type walls starting about a foot and a half and ending in a 6" gap between frames. The material on the studio facing wall will be5/8" finished drywall (some tile) and the C-room wall will be faced with 1/2" taped drywall followed (get this) by sound blankets with a layer of 3/8" mdf over it all. The mdf will be caulked and painted, with foam added as needed.

what I want to know is; will the blanket help if I secure the outermost layer of board only to the drywall?

Has anyone done anything like this? Would simple, cheap insulation do more to reduce sound leakage?

[jake-owa]

Hehe...Wait, I got another one.

What's the cheapest method of getting a mic panel through that wall that doesn't ruin it completely?

I am way too poor to be building a studio.

[cadesignr]

Hello Jake-owa, long time no hear. Did your boat to Portland take a detour? No matter, welcome to the bbs. The gurus will be along shortly. Take a seat and have some popcorn.
fitZ

[AVare]

If this what you are referring to:

drywall on studs
air space
drywall on studs
soundblanket
mdf

and by soundblanket you mean sound absorbent insulation, it will be terrible compared to what the material could do. What you need is mass air mass. Start by looking at the bottom of this. 23 dB difference with the same material because of extra spaces..

http://www.domesticsoundproofing.co.uk/tloss.htm

The article will give a good explanation of what is going on with sound isolation.


Andre

[knightfly]

Hi Jake, and welcome - I'm off to Phoenix for a consult in about 20 minutes, but will hopefully chime in tonight late(hotel claims to have net access) - you got good guys on the case already though -

Guys, if you have any Q's about painting Jake's your man -

Gotta run, later... Steve

[jake-owa]

I have read that Avare. I guess I was thinking that the blanket would provide a sort of cushion for the outer layer of MDF if it was fastened to the drywall beneath rather than the studs themselves. I will two seperate one-sided walls with a decent airspace between them and the different materials should assist in absorbing more frequency range as well. I realize that the blanket (basic moving type) won't be providing significant mass in between the two layers of inner (c-room side) wall but it seems like a cheap way to decouple the outer layer of MDF from the drywall.

Am I way off here, is this a silly idea?

Also, the other question, how do people around these parts make mic panels for minimizing sound leakage?

[jake-owa]

Hello Jake-owa, long time no hear. Did your boat to Portland take a detour? No matter, welcome to the bbs. The gurus will be along shortly. Take a seat and have some popcorn.
fitZ

I don't do homerecording.com anymore. I have been over at recordingproject.com everyday though.

I have a house with a basement in Oregon now thus the building questions.

Not just paint questions Knightfly, drywall, waterproofing, wallpaper...the list is long.
I am always happy to answer any questions in my feild.

[cadesignr]

Hello Jake.

I realize that the
blanket (basic moving type) won't be providing significant mass in between the two layers of inner (c-room side) wall but it
seems like a cheap way to decouple the outer layer of MDF from the drywall.

Jake, what do you mean by "decouple"? How were you going to attach the "soundblankets" and to what? And THEN, how were you planning on attatching the MDF to the "soundblankets"? Decoupling implys NO physical connection between the decoupled item and the structure you are decoupling from. Seriously, read the stickys here. All the necessary considerations and methodology is already posted. Its simply a matter of deciphering what it is you can afford to do. When it comes to sound attenuation, reinventing the wheel so to speak, is an excercise in futility, as the tested forms of this type of construction has already exhausted all possible scenarios. Acoustics and the transmission of sound is NOT intuitive. On the contrary, it will undermine the simplist assumptions. So the best advice I can give you, is read everything here, as all the homework has been done.
Hey, did you make it to Portland? I'm still here in .....Coos Bay
fitZ

[AVare]

Cadesignr summed it up better than I could.

Andre

[notbradsohner]

after the extra layer of sound blankets, wouldnt that make it have two air spaces?

[cadesignr]

after the extra layer of sound blankets, wouldnt that make it have two air spaces?

Only if you can seal the airgap. How do you seal the MDF in front of the airgap and blankets, without touching a support structure, which in this case, must be "decoupled? The only thing I can fathom is he planned on suspending or hanging this in front of the drywall. But then, how do you seal it? Its easy to imagine assemblys in space, but this reality has rules. One of which, is things don't float in gravity, which translates into fastening methods. In this case, what is he fastening the MDF to? And how does this method decouple it from both the floor and ceiling? Let alone the joints between panels. You could connect by cleats, but a wall of unsupported MDF, that is only 3/8" thick, is subject to gravity. If free standing height wise, 3/8" will BEND. IF hung by a decoupled iso something or other, how do you seal it? Get my drift.
IF, you fasten the MDF THROUGH the blanket to the framing behind the drywall, you now have circumvented any decoupling whatsoever. So what is this decoupling method Jake speaks of? My interpretation of a decoupled space, means exactly that. 6 planes of an isolated, and floated box. ie. The floor, the walls, and a ceiling. In otherwords, a room with in a room. How do you do that with blankets and 3/8"mdf?
fitZ

[jake-owa]

Ok, I guess I have a lot more reading to do. Problem is I am doing this construction NOW.
I was not using the proper term when I said decouple. I guess I meant to cushion somewhat rather than completely decouple. I was thinking that a layer of mdf fastened to the drywall (or reversed with the drywall on top) and not the studs with a layer of carpet foam or blanket sandwiched between would give a bit of assistance in isolating the control room from the studio. I know it would still be fastened to the wall structure but I suppose in my warped mind I figured that if you didn't screw down too tightly and made the contact areas in between studs you would do some good. Oh well. Now I will probably just do 5/8" drywall until I can afford to do more to the studio side of the wall.

Going for ultra cheap and at least decent.
What's the best budget insulationfor this type of wall cavity? It will be 1.5 feet between frame channels on one side and end at 6" between on the window side.

I know I should study this for a few months and tehn start but it's too late for that and I kind of like jsut blabbing about it here. Sorry if my willy-nilly attitude is unnerveing to you fitz.

[AVare]

What's the best budget insulationfor this type of wall cavity? It will be 1.5 feet between frame channels on one side and end at 6" between on the window side.

We don't know. Material prices vary wildly from region to region. Fiberglass or mineral wool. The thicker the better. Call your suppliers for local prices.

Andre

[cadesignr]

Sorry if my willy-nilly attitude is unnerveing to you fitz.

Not at all Jake. Its your space. But I bet you didn't pack your MS-16 willy nilly (just teasing you) Besides, I'm no guru here. Just trying to help clarify things. Good luck with your space Jake.

fitZ