Okay, my studio is almost done, my last big problem. One of my walls has a furnace behind it, I am trying to find the best way to block the sound out, the problem is I have to have an access panel in the wall to get to the back of the furnace and change air filters.
I have looked at www.sounddeadeningmaterials.com
Any ideas, suggestions???
Thanks
Blocking out Furnace Noise
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phlaw23
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 7:48 pm
- Location: Fargo, ND
Blocking out Furnace Noise
Brian Michaels
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z60611
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Furnaces have a life expectancy of about 10 years. So you need access large enough to replace the entire furnace, not just the filter. Also a furnace needs lots of combustion air.
The good news is I think that a furnace has a frequency distribution like this
http://www.bobgolds.com/Furnace/OLD/Fur ... se2004.JPG
The good news is I think that a furnace has a frequency distribution like this
http://www.bobgolds.com/Furnace/OLD/Fur ... se2004.JPG
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knightfly
- Senior Member
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- Location: West Coast, USA
This is why pictures make things easier and quicker - do you mean that you need an access panel in a sound proof wall? And if so, how is/will the wall be constructed in the first place? Or, do you need that information also?
Not trying to be nitpicky here, it's just that 10 different people will describe the exact same thing or situation at least 9 different ways - the more info we have, the closer to a working solution you get. Don't be afraid to do a long post if that's what it takes to be clear - no one here is gonna bite your head off without getting MY teeth marks in their ankle on the way OUT... so please, be as specific about your existing (or planned) construction as you can, and we'll see what we can come up with for a solution... Steve
Not trying to be nitpicky here, it's just that 10 different people will describe the exact same thing or situation at least 9 different ways - the more info we have, the closer to a working solution you get. Don't be afraid to do a long post if that's what it takes to be clear - no one here is gonna bite your head off without getting MY teeth marks in their ankle on the way OUT... so please, be as specific about your existing (or planned) construction as you can, and we'll see what we can come up with for a solution... Steve
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phlaw23
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 7:48 pm
- Location: Fargo, ND
I have a wall in my recording studio, the frame is already built. There is a furnace behind the wall and I need to be able to get to the furnace through that wall. I need to have an access panel probably 12 to 18 inches wide and probably the same height. I want to be able to block out the sound of the furnace as much as possible.
What other info do you need???
What other info do you need???
Brian Michaels
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Studs - steel or wood?
If steel, what gauge?
In either case, what spacing?
Single frame with or without Resilient Channel?
What wall material - MDF, particle board, plywood, gypsum wallboard, ??
How many layers, and on which side of the frame?
What kind of insulation, and where in the wall is it - between double stud frames, in between studs on one or both frames?
Can you live with an access panel that's the full width of one of your stud cavities?
How often will you need to remove the access panel?
How many dB sound pressure level does the furnace put out?
And how quiet do you need it in the studio?
Do you want the panel to become invisible when installed, or does it matter?
Are you beginning to see why I wanted a diagram? I'm not trying to be difficult here, but you seem to not want to give any information, yet you want a valid answer. I can't give one without knowing the conditions of your particular case. The sooner you realize that, the sooner I can help you work out a usable plan... Steve
If steel, what gauge?
In either case, what spacing?
Single frame with or without Resilient Channel?
What wall material - MDF, particle board, plywood, gypsum wallboard, ??
How many layers, and on which side of the frame?
What kind of insulation, and where in the wall is it - between double stud frames, in between studs on one or both frames?
Can you live with an access panel that's the full width of one of your stud cavities?
How often will you need to remove the access panel?
How many dB sound pressure level does the furnace put out?
And how quiet do you need it in the studio?
Do you want the panel to become invisible when installed, or does it matter?
Are you beginning to see why I wanted a diagram? I'm not trying to be difficult here, but you seem to not want to give any information, yet you want a valid answer. I can't give one without knowing the conditions of your particular case. The sooner you realize that, the sooner I can help you work out a usable plan... Steve
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phlaw23
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 7:48 pm
- Location: Fargo, ND
knightfly wrote:Studs - steel or wood?
Wood.
If steel, what gauge?
In either case, what spacing?
12 inches I believe.
Single frame with or without Resilient Channel?
What wall material - MDF, particle board, plywood, gypsum wallboard, ??
How many layers, and on which side of the frame?
What kind of insulation, and where in the wall is it - between double stud frames, in between studs on one or both frames?
It is just the frame (studs) nothing else, that is what I am asking, what kind of material should I use?
Can you live with an access panel that's the full width of one of your stud cavities?
I think so.
How often will you need to remove the access panel?
a couple times a year (2-3 max)
How many dB sound pressure level does the furnace put out?
Don't know
And how quiet do you need it in the studio?
It doesn't have to be dead, I just don't wan't the furnace noise in my recordings..
Do you want the panel to become invisible when installed, or does it matter? Doesn't matter, it doesn't have to be pretty.
Are you beginning to see why I wanted a diagram? I'm not trying to be difficult here, but you seem to not want to give any information, yet you want a valid answer. I can't give one without knowing the conditions of your particular case. The sooner you realize that, the sooner I can help you work out a usable plan... Steve
Brian Michaels
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cadesignr
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2003 4:25 pm
- Location: Oregon USA
A few more questions to help clarify your existing conditions.
Does the new framing connect to the existing side walls of the furnace enclosure, or is it enclosed?
Is your studio exposed to the sidewalls?
What is lining the furnace enclosure?
What is the furnace sitting on?
Does this supply HVAC to the studio, and if so, how?
Is this a double wall in front of an existing wall at the back of the furnace?
What is in front of the furnace on the opposite side of your new wall?
Is there a ceiling above the furnace, and if so, do vents go through it?
What is the ceiling in your studio space adjacent to the furnace? New or existing(floor above?)
What is shiething the rest of the studio walls and ceiling?
How does the space above the studio ceiling interface with the furnace space?
These types of things will have a bearing on how and what should be done. No sense in sheithing a wall with an STC target of 65, if your duct work space flanks into the studio space right above the access panel, or other flanking spaces. Does that make sense? What are your isolation goals?
Sorry for interjecting these questions, but I think they have a bearing. Just trying to help Steve. Here is an illustration to maybe help. The panel and sheithing is arbitrary untill other information is available.
fitZ
Does the new framing connect to the existing side walls of the furnace enclosure, or is it enclosed?
Is your studio exposed to the sidewalls?
What is lining the furnace enclosure?
What is the furnace sitting on?
Does this supply HVAC to the studio, and if so, how?
Is this a double wall in front of an existing wall at the back of the furnace?
What is in front of the furnace on the opposite side of your new wall?
Is there a ceiling above the furnace, and if so, do vents go through it?
What is the ceiling in your studio space adjacent to the furnace? New or existing(floor above?)
What is shiething the rest of the studio walls and ceiling?
How does the space above the studio ceiling interface with the furnace space?
These types of things will have a bearing on how and what should be done. No sense in sheithing a wall with an STC target of 65, if your duct work space flanks into the studio space right above the access panel, or other flanking spaces. Does that make sense? What are your isolation goals?
Sorry for interjecting these questions, but I think they have a bearing. Just trying to help Steve. Here is an illustration to maybe help. The panel and sheithing is arbitrary untill other information is available.
fitZ
alright, breaks over , back on your heads......
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Thanks Fitz, excellent start for discussion - I can always use this kind of help
phlaw23, (got a first name, or is this what you want to be called?) did you actually measure the distance between studs, or is that a guess? I'm asking because that's kind of close unless the wall is either a 2-story or more load-bearing wall, or a staggered stud sound construction - normally, studs are placed either on 16" or 24" centers, so they would be either 14-1/2" between studs or 22-1/2". If they're really 12" centers, that would only leave a maximum of 10-1/2" wide for your access panel.
Fitz drew a good typical example to start with - is that the general layout of your situation, or are there some differences? If so, what are they?
One possibility, if you plan on doing double wallboard on only one side of the frame (not a great amount of isolation that way
) would be to make the access panel from 2 layers of MDF or particle board, using self-stick foam weather stripping around the inside of the panel and compressing this foam by tightening the attaching screws around the perimeter of the panel - if you were to frame this panel on all 4 sides with extra 2x4's caulked and screwed to the regular studs, then you should get a good enough seal using weather stripping -
However, a single leaf wall using two layers of 5/8 sheet rock on only one side of the frame will only get you about 25-30 dB of isolation at common furnace noise frequencies - if that isn't enough, you would need to find a way to add a second leaf and air space; preferably with one side mounted on resilient mounts. This could be a real challenge to do while keeping your access hole functional.
Your thoughts? Steve
phlaw23, (got a first name, or is this what you want to be called?) did you actually measure the distance between studs, or is that a guess? I'm asking because that's kind of close unless the wall is either a 2-story or more load-bearing wall, or a staggered stud sound construction - normally, studs are placed either on 16" or 24" centers, so they would be either 14-1/2" between studs or 22-1/2". If they're really 12" centers, that would only leave a maximum of 10-1/2" wide for your access panel.
Fitz drew a good typical example to start with - is that the general layout of your situation, or are there some differences? If so, what are they?
One possibility, if you plan on doing double wallboard on only one side of the frame (not a great amount of isolation that way
) would be to make the access panel from 2 layers of MDF or particle board, using self-stick foam weather stripping around the inside of the panel and compressing this foam by tightening the attaching screws around the perimeter of the panel - if you were to frame this panel on all 4 sides with extra 2x4's caulked and screwed to the regular studs, then you should get a good enough seal using weather stripping - However, a single leaf wall using two layers of 5/8 sheet rock on only one side of the frame will only get you about 25-30 dB of isolation at common furnace noise frequencies - if that isn't enough, you would need to find a way to add a second leaf and air space; preferably with one side mounted on resilient mounts. This could be a real challenge to do while keeping your access hole functional.
Your thoughts? Steve
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Innovations
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 3:57 am
I too was thinking about some sort of 'plug' of the same construction as the wall and screwed down tightly. I also had a couple of other thoughts.
First, as others have said, furnaces need lots of air for combustion and to prevent gasses from building air. You better be sure there is not just access but ventillation. But if that is the case, could the furnace be rotated 90 or 180 degrees to put the filter access on that side too?
First, as others have said, furnaces need lots of air for combustion and to prevent gasses from building air. You better be sure there is not just access but ventillation. But if that is the case, could the furnace be rotated 90 or 180 degrees to put the filter access on that side too?