Design Complete, Drawing attached but how?

[JOHNNYGATE]

There are some planning matters I’m concerned about:
Is the drum booth is big enough?


What construction technique do you reccomend? I originally wanted to do the staggered stud design, 2 layers of sheetrock per wall and a 4 inch gap between. It really shrinks the space quick.

Also with the glass sliding doors and French doors it seems it would be overkill if they weren’t going to have that STC rating.

[knightfly]

It looks to me like the drum booth is going to be a bit snug, especially considering the swing of the inner french doors; but I think you could get the kick drum centered just clear of the door swing pattern and centered, and have enough room for the rest of the kit.

I don't have enough info on your surroundings and isolation needs to answer on the walls; as to interior walls, you're right the doors will be the limiting factor; you can improve that by shrinking the rooms even more (more air gap between inner and outer of each pair of doors) - but again, the usable space shrinks...

Speaking of which, here's the conundrum; would you prefer 370 sq. feet of space that you can't use because of isolation limitations, or 340 sq. feet that you can use 24/7? (Not being snotty, just presenting things according to real life compromises)

Depending on ceiling loads, you can use narrow steel studs (structural grade, load-bearing) and do two separate tracks without using any more wall thickness total than a 2x6 staggered stud wall, and it will improve STC by several points; also, for your doors to work as best they can you will NOT want a common cap or plate in the wall; so again, separate steel stud frames might be the way to go... Steve

[JOHNNYGATE]

The actual space is 21x21.4 with a 8.3 foot ceiling. I would rather have a room I can use 24x7 for sure. I can make the vocal booth smaller no problem, but that still doesn’t leave me with any room on the other side for the drums. Is there any alternative to the French doors? I wanted to be able to open up the drum booth and have live jams but again I'd rather have a 24x7 studio. Also with this smart draw, can I get better measurements out of it to help with the framing? I hate this learning curve

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! much needed...

[knightfly]

There are always alternatives; it's more whether we are willing/able to consider them. For example, the door thing; if you're into DIY, you can build your own doors - it would be a big job and time consuming, especially if you want glass as a good part of the doors; but it could be done.

For example, you could laminate a center core of 3/4 MDF with two outer layers of 1/2" OSB to make a door the same thickness as exterior doors, so the hinges would work; then, use 4-5 hinges for each door, make one 4 feet wide and the other one 5 feet wide; that way, both could open the same direction and you'd still have almost 4 feet of usable doorway. Something like the crude drawing I'll add to this (just as soon as I draw it )

If you were to cut matching holes through these doors and install 1/2 and 3/8 laminated glass, you'd have line of sight and still good STC for the pair, with proper seal kits.

Doing it that way would make 2-3 feet MORE of the drum booth usable, where the inside door would NOT need to swing - having both doors swing the same direction would require drop seals on both doors that do NOT rely on a raised threshold;

BTW, did I mention that this would NOT be a project for a BEGINNING DIY person? Just checking... Steve

[JOHNNYGATE]

AWESOME IDEA!

I am not a beginning DIY, but am more of an electronic/Electrical guy.

Can you explain how you would approach building the studio:


what’s baffling me is....

Where you would start?

How do I approach doing the walls with no way to put sheetrock behind the wall after I put studs in. Do I build the wall on the floor first the raise it?


If so and I use metal studs, and a staggered stud wall how do you raise that?

What do you recommend for floors, just build on the concrete? Raise them with plywood like exemplified in SAE Institute?


Ahhh lol

[knightfly]

Johnny, you really need to read through the top 3 links here -

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2125

Most, if not all, these questions should be answered there.

Your questions about using staggered studs with steel framing tell me you've not used steel framing - this isn't possible with steel framing, other than to OFFSET the studs on a second, independent frame of a double framed wall, which isn't called "staggered stud" staggered stud is not the best isolation you can get, it's only a few dB better than a single frame. This is because both the bottom and top plates of a staggered stud frame are common to both sides of the wall; in a true double framed wall, each frame is independent of the other and can be anywhere from maybe an inch apart to a foot or so, depending on the space available and the isolation required.

Your question about putting wallboard on the back side of a frame tells me you need to search here on "3-leaf" or "triple leaf" - most times you would want to do this, you will be building an inferior performing wall system.

Please read through those 3 links carefully, then re-ask whatever questions you still have - thanks... Steve

[JOHNNYGATE]

Great! I will read up!!!!