John Sayers Wall Unit Design - Question?

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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j.m
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 12:29 pm
Location: Germany, Bavaria

John Sayers Wall Unit Design - Question?

Post by j.m »

Hi guys,

maybe I'm kinda stupid - but,

as great as the layouts/sketches are - I'm still having problems to figure out how to fix the insulation in the described position.

When I look at the side-wall-absorbers it looks like they should be mounted/glued to the rear plywood.
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But the insulation of the corner-absorber gives me some headache.
How do I fix it in that position? Or do the float in air?
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And the rear-wall-absorber? Do I glue/sew it to the cloth?


Any tips/infos are very welcome!


Maybe someone have built some of these (Mr. John Sayers? :wink:)
And could submit some real-life pics of these self-built absorbers.
Maybe even some of the construction phase?

I would be very thankful!
cheers j.m
jatougas
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:47 pm
Location: Athens, GA, USA

Re: John Sayers Wall Unit Design - Question?

Post by jatougas »

j.m wrote: But the insulation of the corner-absorber gives me some headache.
How do I fix it in that position? Or do the float in air?
I think they're basically hung there with picture wire and hooks. Some of the panels I've seen have had a 1x1 frame around them to affix the screws to. I don't know if OC703 is rigid enough to take an eye screw on it's own.
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

No, it's not rigid enough for a screw NOT to pull out; one way is to use standard wall framing (wood studs) but spaced on 25-1/2" centers; :o "Why, you ask?"

Because rigid normally comes in exactly 2 foot wide x 4 foot long pieces, so if you don't want to waste any or cut more than you have to, you can put the studs 25-1/2" on center; this will leave exactly 24" gaps into which the 703 will fit.

Mounting - you can run 1x4 lath across the backs of these studs, spaced 6" off the floor, then 24", then 44" - this for the bottom course of 2x4 foot batts, then again at 52", 72", and 92" - on these, you glue/screw impaling clips

http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/prod ... _clips.asp

within 3" of the edges, bottom/middle/top of each batt, then just push the batts onto the clips (a glob of contact cement near the clip first won't hurt) and you're ready to stretch the cloth.

705 (6 PCF) is stiffer than 703, but still will work well using this method. Same with similar weight rockwool products.

In most cases, you do NOT want to use solid plywood for this UNLESS that plywood is also the back of the unit; otherwise, you'll negatively affect absorption by cutting down on the air gap behind the absorption material... Steve
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