building a celing to a room whithin a room

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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teomi
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building a celing to a room whithin a room

Post by teomi »

Hey guys, thanks for your help so far!
I've searched here but couldn't find the answer...
I am getting ready to build my studio inside my garage but I need some instruction on how to make a ceiling to it.
I realized it will halp a lot to block sound even further rather than using the garage ceiling.

So...how do I do it :roll:

Thanks in advance?
-
Eitan Teomi, Composer/Sound Designer
www.handheldsound.com
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

Have you read through all the threads in the REFERENCE section at the top of this forum? I can't believe there's nothing useful there... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
samthebeat
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Post by samthebeat »

lay the baseplates down, then whack yer uprights up, then put yer top plates on. Do this for each wall, then put a lid on your box.

I would 2x6'' wood if its a big span....once youve done that stuff this insulation on screw and calk the first layer of drywall on, glue the second, seal it all up it will be cool.
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

Sam, that's enough for someone who's actually done it; sounds like Teomi may need a bit more though...

Teomi, check out Amazon.com for this book (link's too long and I'm lazy)

Basics for Builders: Framing and Rough Carpentry by Scot Simpson

You can get it used for about $9, and it will give you enough knowledge to ask questions.

Do NOT, however, build anything you want soundproof using those EXACT methods; this is just a reference for you, then we can tell you what things to do DIFFERENT in your case.

Soundproof construction is either VERY expensive (if you hire someone who actually knows HOW) or pretty time-consuming (requires YOU to learn the RIGHT ways of using normal materials and to build it yourself) - so please have enough patience to not rush into this, or you won't be very happy with the results... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
sharward
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Post by sharward »

knightfly wrote:Basics for Builders: Framing and Rough Carpentry by Scot Simpson
I bought that book at the bookstore several months ago, before I discovered this forum when I thought framing was going to be my biggest challenge. (Ha!) I echo Steve's endorsement.

I'm not lazy like Steve is. :wink:Click here to buy the book on Amazon.com!
samthebeat
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Post by samthebeat »

Yeah after reading that it is a bit of shit description to say least sory.
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

No prob Sam; one of the hardest parts I've found about modding these forums is figuring out what level of experience/knowledge I'm dealing with in each separate case and adapting to that level, so I don't either talk 'way over someone's head or bore them to death -

One thing that helps me there is a fair memory of my OWN varying "levels of confusion" over the years, along with having taught electronic theory and repair to people with a REALLY wide range of backgrounds/experiences (military) - example: same class, one guy had just flunked out of truck driving school, another had a masters degree in mathmatics, another had been a plumber's helper before enlisting in the ASA, etc.

Teomi, you should seriously get that book ASAP; it's very reasonable (most of the ones I have on my shelves were much more expensive) and it will give you a better "starting point" with less "gaps" in the information than I could do here in the time I have - then, once you're more familiar with "standard" building practices we can discuss the CHANGES necessary for good sound isolation... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
rbarnes
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walls wiggly in middle

Post by rbarnes »

I have a question regarding this very thing. I have just completed putting my 2x6 'lid' on my room-in-room box. All four walls are diagonally braced to keep them rigid (no side-side movement) and if you try to 'wiggle' the free standing structure at a corner there is no movment. My question is in regards to the longer wall (22') there is about 2" of deflection in in/out movement perpendicular to the wall face. There is currently no diagonal bracing on the ceiling to prevent this type of movement. My question is if that bracing is necessary or if this will be resolved when sheetrock is added to the ceiling (much like the back to a bookcase)?

Thoughts? I know there are those sway brackets but I am not convinced they are necessary. Pictures available when I get home if they are necessary.

-Rob
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

Yeah, the rock will take that out; not to the same degree, but same principle as the back of the bookcase and using plywood sheathing over wall frames on the outside of a house. Basically the panels form a "gusset" that braces each section. Adding second/third layers of wallboard at right angles makes this even better... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
rbarnes
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Post by rbarnes »

Thanks for your reply. Its always nice to confirm what you suspect. Pictures of progress available at for those that may be interested.

http://chewyoatmeal.com:81/gallery/Basement?page=4
rbarnes
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Post by rbarnes »

As a follow-up for anyone who comes across this thread w/ similar issues.. drywall cleared up the issue and the room is now solid as a rock.
Aaronw
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Post by Aaronw »

Your link doesn't appear to be working...
sharward
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Post by sharward »

Works for me.
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

Aha; 'tis the case of the "kinky linky"... :roll:
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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