Studio Construction Update II - electrical and ventilation

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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groovemeister
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 11:59 am
Location: Los Angeles

Studio Construction Update II - electrical and ventilation

Post by groovemeister »

Construction on the outer leaf is complete and 2 interior leafs have been framed. Good news about the ventilation - Fantech said that since I live in Southern California there would be no problem putting the unit in the attic of the garage, even with the hot temperatures up there. They are mainly concerned in colder environments where condensation and freezing temperatures occur. The roof rafters are insulated as well as between the ceiling joists. I am not totally happy about having an access panel in the ceiling, as it will affect the construction of the soundproof ceiling, but I will have to soundproof that access door as best I can. Someone suggested accessing the attic from outside the garage, which I think is technically feasible, but I want to keep the access in the interior the garage. Since the ventilation unit is hung from chains in the attic, hopefully there won't be much mechanical vibration affecting the structure. I know that there are vibration mounts to deal with this if it becames an issue. I will also have to have a drain tube for the occasional condensation that occurs. Fantech also sells silencers (model LD6) that can be attached to the ducting to reduce noise. I assume that these can help (about $84 each). I have also seen several designs on this and other sites for plenums/silencers which I could build later on if needed. I am ordering the unit today which will get here in 4-5 days, but the ducting and vent grills will get here sooner so that I can have my contractor help me put these in the correct spot. I plan on having an input and output in the vocal booth/amp isolation booth, and then an input and output in the main part of the room but not too close to where the mixing area/ speakers are. FYI - this ventilation system (after all the needed parts, tax, and shipping) will come in at $969.
The electrician came out today to start the wiring. I have a 50 amp subpanel in the garage from a 200 amp main panel on the house. The electrician has carefully installed a very good ground just for the studio and I have asked that the 6 quad outlets that I have will be on separate circuits tied to the same ground. He is also wiring phone jacks. outside security lights, an outlet up in the attic for the ventilation system, along with the necessary switches and lighting. I have decided to use flourescent lighting, which at first I was not going to use. Here is my rational:
1. The newer electonic T2 ballasts are much quieter and the lights will be on their own circuits, independent of any other equipment that I am using.
2. The lights do not generate much heat, which will make keeping the room cool much easier. I originally thought of using track lighting which normally uses halogen lights - these generate a considerable amount of heat.
3. Many video studios, tv studios, are using flourescent lighting for many reasons. Especially studios that do composite editing (blue/green screening for special effects). This is mainly do to being able to use different degree bulbs and the fact that shadows are not as much a problem with flourescents. I may be using the garage to film music videos so this would be a useful thing.

Please feel free to agree/disagree with this - they have not yet been installed. :)

I noticed that the electrician was installing the subpanel and outlets recessed into the framing of the outer leaf. I thought about this for a while and finally asked him to redo this with surface mounted fixtures and panel. Aparently you need a different type of panel box for this, which is not expensive, but this will cost more for the guy to rewire the panel. It did not make a whole lot of sense to spend all this time and money getting these "soundproof" walls, and then put all these big holes in the walls to recess the outlets and panel. With surface mounted outlets, only small holes in the wall system would be required for the romex wire to come through to attach to the outlets. Then you can caulk around the wires and preserve most of the soundproofing. I told the electrician that I was willing to sacrifice aesthetics to preserve the soundproofing. The subpanel will also be in the vocal booth, where I will also be putting gtr and bass amps so I did not want these leaking through the subpanel. I figure I can just treat the surface of the panel with foam.

Sorry if this post is too long - I am still getting the hang of this BB.[/quote]
tmix
Posts: 255
Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2003 9:49 pm
Location: Mansfield, Texas
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Keep it coming!

Post by tmix »

I am very interested in hearing your reports.
I am in the beginning stages of building (no foundation yet) and I am planning on hanging my HVAC unit on a trapeze type iso mount in the attic as well . I am going to try an build a small sound block room around the unit and insulate it so it shares more common temps with the studio.

I am also very interested in what you find out about the lighting. I dont want noise, but I could stand the lights not being as hot as incandesant ones do.

Tom
Tom Menikos
T-Mix Studios
Mansfield Tx
sharward
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Post by sharward »

groovemeister, your "posts to information ratio" is amazing. Don't apologize for your posts being long -- they're very informative! It's not like you're rambling on and on about irrelevant crap! :)

I agree that surface mounting the electrical panel makes a lot more sense than the more aesthetically pleasing recessed panel.

As far as surface mounting the outlets and stuff, consider flush mounting the boxes and using these putty packs on the backs (and sides) of the boxes. Not only do they help seal them for sound isolation, they also provide an extra layer of protection in case of an electrical fire.

I'm very interested in your impresion of the ventilation fan you purchased, so please report back with as much detail as you can on that!

Any chance you've got some photos to share with us? Be sure to trim or resize them down so they're no wider than 700 pixels as per forum guidelines. The more photos, the better -- we love our pics around here! :mrgreen:
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

outer leaf is complete and 2 interior leafs

Think I mentioned a concern about this in another thread; a sketch would help, unless you KNOW you're going against conventional isolation wisdom.

Video - depends on your camera; most today have several white bal options, including being able to put up a piece of white paper and tell the camera "this is white" - so color temp seems to be less of a concern for normal use. Even the "auto" white bal on my Canon DV does a pretty good job in wierd light (mix of halogen, HID, etc)

Not up on newest flourescents/noise. If you know someone who has them, take a single-coil guitar pickup and amp and wave the guitar around close to the lights; if that isn't a problem, not much else will be either... Steve

Oh, depending on the camera and goals you may want to include higher current sources for lights (several KW) and more cooling - a typical 4-light setup for basic video runs about 4 KW and costs around $1000 - check out B&H Photo for more on this -

here
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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