Hi guys! Me again... i´m ready to start framing, and i have a couple of questions... I´ll use steel framing (see the picS), and i have two options... i can use 70mm studs or 35mm studs. If i choose the 35mm studs, i´ll have to compress the 50mm wool to fit the stud, and if i choose the 70mm stud, i´ll have to use some kind of velcro to keep the wool on his place.
I think that the wall -my inner mass- will be stronger if i use 70mm studs, but the wool will have space to move inside the studs...
And using 35mm studs, i think that the wool will be strongly pressed between the studs, so it won´t rattle with the vibrations of the gypsum board, but i may be "weaker" than the other one...
(btw, i´ll use two layers of 5/8 gypsum attached to that frame)
Which is my best option?
Framing with steel studs...
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Julián Fernández
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- Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
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lomky
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- Location: edmonton, alberta, canada
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Not sure I understand this correctly. I have done steel stud framing for many years, so I have some experience. In my experience, we mostly use 3 5/8" studs/track and R-12, we drywall one side and then insulate and drywall the other side. The insulation does not move. Are you building two seperate walls w/ and airspace?
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knightfly
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Lomky, welcome to the forum; can I get you to edit your profile to include a location? Just makes it easier to keep track of things, including area-specific materials/prices, etc - thanks...
The studs you're used to using are (I'm guessing) structural weight (20 gauge or so), and are a (sorta) direct replacement for standard 2x4's, right?
For sound walls, if they are NOT going to be load bearing, isolation performance actually improves by using NON-load-bearing gauge of steel studs - typically 25 gauge. This lets the wallboard "flop" a bit more, which helps low frequency isolation.
However, I've not heard of anyone using the lighter weight studs in a wall with paneling only on ONE side; not sure they'd hold up very well. Also, the "floppy" thing wouldn't make as much difference in a double framed (paneling only on one side of each frame) wall because you would have the decoupling that's created by NOT having the two leaves of your wall on the same frame. This is (sorta) explained in the REFERENCE section, one of the top links.
In Julian's case, he has existing masonry outer walls (if I remember correctly) so would only want paneling on ONE side of inner studs to avoid a 3-leaf wall.
Julian, do you have specs on the gauge of your stud choices? Are they both the same thickness of metal, and if so what is it? Basically, I would NOT recommend the narrower studs for a "single sided" wall such as yours, no matter WHAT the thickness of metal is - and you're right, that's too much compression for that insulation to work for 35mm studs (which I wouldn't use ANYWAY)
If you can find insulation that's designed for 90mm stud walls, and it's NOT the heavier rockwool product but instead the "fluffy stuff" or spun fiberglass, that would be about right for a bit of compression (bot not TOO much) with your 70mm studs -
Also, do you have a method of keeping the insulation from pushing out the back of the frame yet? Steve
The studs you're used to using are (I'm guessing) structural weight (20 gauge or so), and are a (sorta) direct replacement for standard 2x4's, right?
For sound walls, if they are NOT going to be load bearing, isolation performance actually improves by using NON-load-bearing gauge of steel studs - typically 25 gauge. This lets the wallboard "flop" a bit more, which helps low frequency isolation.
However, I've not heard of anyone using the lighter weight studs in a wall with paneling only on ONE side; not sure they'd hold up very well. Also, the "floppy" thing wouldn't make as much difference in a double framed (paneling only on one side of each frame) wall because you would have the decoupling that's created by NOT having the two leaves of your wall on the same frame. This is (sorta) explained in the REFERENCE section, one of the top links.
In Julian's case, he has existing masonry outer walls (if I remember correctly) so would only want paneling on ONE side of inner studs to avoid a 3-leaf wall.
Julian, do you have specs on the gauge of your stud choices? Are they both the same thickness of metal, and if so what is it? Basically, I would NOT recommend the narrower studs for a "single sided" wall such as yours, no matter WHAT the thickness of metal is - and you're right, that's too much compression for that insulation to work for 35mm studs (which I wouldn't use ANYWAY)
If you can find insulation that's designed for 90mm stud walls, and it's NOT the heavier rockwool product but instead the "fluffy stuff" or spun fiberglass, that would be about right for a bit of compression (bot not TOO much) with your 70mm studs -
Also, do you have a method of keeping the insulation from pushing out the back of the frame yet? Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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lomky
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- Location: edmonton, alberta, canada
- Contact:
Sorry about that, didn't mean to over-step. I forgot where I was for a second. I'm just a lurker here, I post stuff to the studio construction forum on homrecording, and post very little here.
I was speaking on partiion walls not walls built on concrete. Can I infer that you do not recomend steel stud construction for studios?
I was speaking of non-load bearing steel studs that are mostly used is a "fill in" for comercial structural steel construction and partition walls.
And now I feel I must apologies for the hijack
Josh
I was speaking on partiion walls not walls built on concrete. Can I infer that you do not recomend steel stud construction for studios?
I was speaking of non-load bearing steel studs that are mostly used is a "fill in" for comercial structural steel construction and partition walls.
And now I feel I must apologies for the hijack
Josh
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Josh, no apologies necessary; we're all here to learn and share.
As to steel studs, there are places/situations where they are fine - for one thing, ya don't hafta trim out many knots
but there are downsides to everything, and steel/gypsum are no exception - depending on climate and air circulation/ventilation, it can be a BIG downside. For more, check this study out -
http://www.buildingscience.com/resource ... ldings.pdf
These guys have an incredible amount of free and useful info on their site, this particular doc talks about the moisture retaining abilities of three different built houses, it's a real eye-opener especially if you live in a damp climate.
Don't be afraid to post here, we almost NEVER bite (except when someone gets nasty or ridicules a member for asking questions, then I just fire a warning shot to their head and ask what their problem is )... Steve
As to steel studs, there are places/situations where they are fine - for one thing, ya don't hafta trim out many knots
but there are downsides to everything, and steel/gypsum are no exception - depending on climate and air circulation/ventilation, it can be a BIG downside. For more, check this study out - http://www.buildingscience.com/resource ... ldings.pdf
These guys have an incredible amount of free and useful info on their site, this particular doc talks about the moisture retaining abilities of three different built houses, it's a real eye-opener especially if you live in a damp climate.
Don't be afraid to post here, we almost NEVER bite (except when someone gets nasty or ridicules a member for asking questions, then I just fire a warning shot to their head and ask what their problem is
)... SteveSoooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...