Starting Fresh and Obeying the Laws of Physics

[edenorchestra]

trimmed . . .

[edenorchestra]

Bump

[knightfly]

What do you need to know about your laminated beam - how/where to build what, or sizing for a 24' span, or??

Sloping the ceiling of the live room that way can cause some reflection/echo problems where the high point is, next to the laminated beam/dotted line - be a good place for a horizontal corner absorber of 3 or 4" mineral wool most likely.

Please tell me I'm NOT seeing a common trunk line from the air handler with drops into BOTH rooms??!? This will kill quite a bit of isolation between CR and live room. Don't remember where, but it's been mentioned here (and in several books on studio building) that you need separate runs from air handler to each room, with at least 180 degrees of bends in each run. The ducts look large enough - if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, is there enough room for blocking off one room's feed and running separate lines from/to the air handler?

Hopefully I'm looking wrong... Steve

[edenorchestra]

Actually I not concerned about the air handling. The main duct from the furnace is over sized. From there we have 360 degrees each of turns between the CR and the Studio. We thought about home running the supply and with the large main duct have achieved close to that, effectively the 20X20 closely emulates the home run effect for each supply feed. All duct work is internally lined with 1" of acoustic insulation, not to metion being supported on EPDM rubber as well as covered on three sides with cellulose insulation. All supply vents have internal acoustic rated turning vanes which are also internally lined with insulation. The furnace has a variable speed controlled DC blower. I realize that doesn't isolate the two rooms, but does address the air velocity issues. The system was designed by my guitar player, who designs ductwork for one of Pittsburgh's largest mechanical HVAC companies. Will be fine . . .

As far as the span is concerned, I am going to use laminated products. Most likely TJI pro 230 on the straight span. On the dotted line area, I am having one of my structural engineers spec out the best product for that one.

I was mainly wanting some input on the shape of the high ceiling. I think I wll bevel the hard corner on the dotted area, and yes I agree with you on asorbers at that point.


-Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.

[edenorchestra]

Some updates . . . Working on the flooring for the main room. My floors are extremely uneven . . spent all day making shims . . . we used a laser to level the floor and she's pretty "dead nuts" on . .

The R50 insulation is certainly keeping the building much much warmer . .


Has drywall been used as a layer in flooring as in between two sheets of plywood or OSB . . is that functional???

[sharward]

Last month Steve wrote this:

. . . your badly damaged original floor could be leveled with gypsum joint compound before adding a layer of gypsum (I'd use the "greenboard" version of gypsum, made for bathrooms, etc, since this is a floor and possible wetting may happen from mopping, etc) - then, I'd put a solid layer of MDF or OSB on top of the gypsum. . . (Source)

However, last year he wrote this:

I'm not a fan of using particle board as a bottom layer of floors that are over concrete - moisture and particle board aren't a good combination - also, if you're going to float the entire room on top of this floor, I'm not sure if using a sandwich of gypsum in the floor is a good idea either - I've not done this, and I'm a bit leary of that much weight pressing down on a particle board and gypsum floor without compression problems. (Source)

So, I think the answer may depend on whether or not you're floating your walls on it.

[edenorchestra]

Those were my thoughts as well . . I am indeed floating the walls and that would cause too much compression . . . I will pass on that idea . . .