my room.. i've made some mistakes...

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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noisefix
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 12:45 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

my room.. i've made some mistakes...

Post by noisefix »

hi there

here's a schematic i put together in photoshop of what i have currently built (in black)

Image

i need to know how to treat the room based on its dimensions.

the back wall has the door much too close to the doorframe, so obviously i cannot put a basstrap there ... so in RED i have illustrated where i think i should put the basstraps, but this is now getting to the point where i really have no idea.

im good at the physical construction side of things, but the correct measurements and things like that.. i'm not too familiar with.

this is a room in a room structure i've built and so far the drywall is all up and am preparing it for painting.

please give me some constructive criticism.. tell me what i've done wrong, and if/how to fix it.

if there's any information missing from the above diagram, please let me know and i will ammend it.

regards
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

That type trap placed mid-wall won't do much; in fact, for second and fourth harmonics of length modes it will do pretty much nothing.

What's your ceiling height? If you have some to spare, placing diagonal broadband traps across the wall/ceiling corner works well, especially near or at the corners of the room... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
noisefix
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 12:45 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post by noisefix »

knightfly wrote:That type trap placed mid-wall won't do much; in fact, for second and fourth harmonics of length modes it will do pretty much nothing.

What's your ceiling height? If you have some to spare, placing diagonal broadband traps across the wall/ceiling corner works well, especially near or at the corners of the room... Steve
Hi Knightfly,

The front of the room ceiling height is 209cm and the back of the room is 238cm.

The distance in the middle of the room from the front wall to the back is 525cm.


The gap above the door which is in the corner is only 27cm or so, so for that corner I will put a diagonal wedge to take up as much space as I can from the ceiling to the wall corner.


So as it stands..

1) I will put 3 proper bass traps in the corners with the angle space available.

2) I will put a diagonal bass absorber between the wall and ceiling above the door

3) I will put a bass absorber from the bottom left hand bass trap (in relation to the pic) which will extend to the edge of the door.

Do the side absorber panels need to be the ones with the wooden slats with the varying gaps, or will simple baffles like the home-made version of RealTraps (www.realtraps.com) work as effectively for a small room like mine?

Other things I have concerns about is the geometry of the room. I don't have the perfect pentagram type correlation between all the walls and the mix point as per the SAE designs, but will I be able to obtain an optimal mixing environment using my current ratios/dimensions?

Thanks and regards.
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

Do the side absorber panels need to be the ones with the wooden slats with the varying gaps, or will simple baffles like the home-made version of RealTraps (www.realtraps.com) work as effectively for a small room like mine?

Even simpler; cloth covered mineral wool patches at first reflection points, including a "cloud" centered over the mix area in addition to corner traps and any rear absorption, plus more of the mineral wool behind your speakers should do it.

Other things I have concerns about is the geometry of the room. I don't have the perfect pentagram type correlation between all the walls and the mix point as per the SAE designs, but will I be able to obtain an optimal mixing environment using my current ratios/dimensions?

You may need to build a portable "gobo" type trap for mixing, to be placed a couple of feet in front of the couch and centered side to side - this can be set aside for tracking, or used to control reflections while micing instruments... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
noisefix
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 12:45 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post by noisefix »

knightfly wrote:Do the side absorber panels need to be the ones with the wooden slats with the varying gaps, or will simple baffles like the home-made version of RealTraps (www.realtraps.com) work as effectively for a small room like mine?

Even simpler; cloth covered mineral wool patches at first reflection points, including a "cloud" centered over the mix area in addition to corner traps and any rear absorption, plus more of the mineral wool behind your speakers should do it.

Other things I have concerns about is the geometry of the room. I don't have the perfect pentagram type correlation between all the walls and the mix point as per the SAE designs, but will I be able to obtain an optimal mixing environment using my current ratios/dimensions?

You may need to build a portable "gobo" type trap for mixing, to be placed a couple of feet in front of the couch and centered side to side - this can be set aside for tracking, or used to control reflections while micing instruments... Steve
That's awesome (regarding the gobo trap) because it's just what I was thinking and also what I wanted to hear.

I've already built the housing for my 'clouds' and to avoid doubleposting, pictures are available on the big thread I have going... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 0&start=15
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