Hi guys,
I'm building a window plug based on Steve's diagram here:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=239
Except with the recommended modification of removing the two outer layers of MDF and adding one to the inside. Now a couple of questions:
1)How do you maintain the 1/16" gap all around?
2)Should I put the closed cell foam directly on the 2X_ frame so it touches the window?
I have some pictures I will post right away.
Thanks
Rick
Window Plug question
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RickHatch
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- Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada
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RickHatch
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:52 am
- Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada
- Contact:
The window is a double slider. It's good in that both sections are removable, and the band can load almost everything in and out through the windows.
This picture illustrates the difference in depth between these two sections.
What would you recommend here?
Also at the top there is an angle that might interfere with the flange. I guess I would just shape the flange to match the ceiling angle.
How would the flange/foam perimiter interact with the window moulding? Should the flange extend past the moulding and have the foam seal to the drywall, or is it OK to seal it to the moulding?
Thanks for all your help
Rick Hatch
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knightfly
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1)How do you maintain the 1/16" gap all around?
That's only to make it so you can get the plug in and out of the window; just make the frame 1/8" smaller than the smallest parts of the window box so it can be inserted/removed without scraping, and you're good.
2)Should I put the closed cell foam directly on the 2X_ frame so it touches the window?
No, it'll work fine to just have the one seal at the molding, provided it's tight. For best damping, I'd use foil faced fiberglass with the foil up against the glass (so the glass doesn't stick to the fiberglass) and use UN-faced insulation under that to make up the necessary thickness so that you have a slight compression of the insulation for damping (compress about 3/4" to 1" for fluffy fiberglass ) - the perimeter, 2x frame should be deep enough to ALMOST touch the window channel, and the insulation should bulge out from that enough to damp the glass...
This picture illustrates the difference in depth between these two sections.
What would you recommend here?
Hopefully answered above??
How would the flange/foam perimiter interact with the window moulding? Should the flange extend past the moulding and have the foam seal to the drywall, or is it OK to seal it to the moulding?
Depends on the condition of your molding and whether it's sealed already to the surface of the wallboard, or just nailed on with wimpy finish nails like most construction. If you want to seal to the moulding, then you may need to REMOVE the molding and re-attach using acoustic caulk under each piece; otherwise you'll probably have air leaks around that joint, and worse LF TL... Steve
BTW, from the looks of your outside weather you want all the insulation you can get; hopefully that thick will keep the temperature gradient gradual enough from glass surface to room so your glass doesn't sweat...
That's only to make it so you can get the plug in and out of the window; just make the frame 1/8" smaller than the smallest parts of the window box so it can be inserted/removed without scraping, and you're good.
2)Should I put the closed cell foam directly on the 2X_ frame so it touches the window?
No, it'll work fine to just have the one seal at the molding, provided it's tight. For best damping, I'd use foil faced fiberglass with the foil up against the glass (so the glass doesn't stick to the fiberglass) and use UN-faced insulation under that to make up the necessary thickness so that you have a slight compression of the insulation for damping (compress about 3/4" to 1" for fluffy fiberglass ) - the perimeter, 2x frame should be deep enough to ALMOST touch the window channel, and the insulation should bulge out from that enough to damp the glass...
This picture illustrates the difference in depth between these two sections.
What would you recommend here?
Hopefully answered above??
How would the flange/foam perimiter interact with the window moulding? Should the flange extend past the moulding and have the foam seal to the drywall, or is it OK to seal it to the moulding?
Depends on the condition of your molding and whether it's sealed already to the surface of the wallboard, or just nailed on with wimpy finish nails like most construction. If you want to seal to the moulding, then you may need to REMOVE the molding and re-attach using acoustic caulk under each piece; otherwise you'll probably have air leaks around that joint, and worse LF TL... Steve
BTW, from the looks of your outside weather you want all the insulation you can get; hopefully that thick will keep the temperature gradient gradual enough from glass surface to room so your glass doesn't sweat...
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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RickHatch
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:52 am
- Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada
- Contact: