John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Fri Apr 09, 2004 12:53 am

Has anyone built a 2x4 frame with 703 on the inside and covered with fabric putting eye-hooks on the top so you can move it around, or remove it as needed?

Thanks,
Rob

barefoot · Post by **barefoot** » Sat Apr 10, 2004 8:54 am

I moved this to the construction forum. You should get more responses here.

Thomas

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Sun Apr 11, 2004 7:37 am

Rob, for starters do a search under "gobo", I know there are a few around here - Steve

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Sun Apr 11, 2004 8:21 am

Thanks Steve I'll check it out.

Jai · Post by **Jai** » Sun Apr 11, 2004 2:26 pm

Hello,

I have built several. What do you need to know?

I make them out of standard 1"x8" , 1"x6", 1"x4" Yellow pine.

The one thing I have learned over the years, DO NOT JUST NAIL OR ScREW THE FRAME TOGETHER>

Yellow pine will split, you may not see it, but it will split. Spend the extra 3 bucks and buy a pack of "L" bracets. I make them so that the 703 will fit on side (2'x4') and be a snug fit. so make the box 1" narrower than you need. stuff the 703 in and cover with fabric.

If you want to make a hanging cloud for the ceiling, build the box, I made one 8'x8'. but this time run another 1" x 4" flat along the bottom, or the side that will be facing down, on the sides and one up the middle. That way you can just lay the 703 on those 1" x 4" and not need to fasten the 703 at all. I have not found a good way to fasten 703. If you put wire through it, it will eventually come out, and most likely in the middle of a session.

If you need more or diagrams let me know.

Jai
www.themixstudio.com

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:23 pm

Jai,

Thanks for the information... and the tip on screwing the frames together. Is there anything special about the fabric, should it be heavy?

I think that should get me going!

I also have some Roxul left, so I think I'll build some with 703 on one side and Roxul on the other with wood slats on the Roxul side to create a live side and a dead side... how thick is the 703?

Thanks!!
Rob

Post by **Aaronw** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 2:08 am

Rob,

The 703 usually comes in thicknesses of 1"-4". Often times in 1/2" increments (at least the first 2 inches- 1", 1 1/2", 2"). Don't know about the larger stuff??

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 4:04 am

Thanks Aaron. That's good then, I can use 2" 703 on one side and the 4" roxul on the other...

Thanks again,
Rob

Post by **Aaronw** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 6:21 am

Is you 4" Roxul the AFB stuff? All they had here where I'm at in 4" was the 4 pcf stuff. And of course finding 4" 703...S.O.L. Not to mention cost...

If you're making baffles or hangers, I think 1" and 2" is the most common construction method I've read about here on the forum. It sounded like Jai was building them out of 1" 703, judging on his framing size. Most of the prefab'd panels I've seen are either 1" or 2" as well.

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 6:50 am

I was able to get the 4" AFB Roxul, I have 3 bags left after I finished the studio...

you can see pics here: www.pbase.com/riadanza/studio

I a little unsure on how to deterime how much, and where to put this stuff so I'm still at that stage. I finally think my slot resonator is down so that's done, maybe, who knows

Rob

Post by **Aaronw** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 7:20 am

Ah, yes, I remember seeing the pix of this studio several months back. How's it coming along?

Is the last set of pix (bedroom setup) the old (current) room?

Try the mirror trick to get an idea where to place the absorbtion. There's some good info here and on RO that have popped up recently on placement of panels.

Aaron

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:18 am

Yeah the bedroom studio is the current situation... I've achieved really decent results with that cheap little spare room. My expectations are high for the studio.

I've made some mistakes along the way but without this forum it would have been a waste of time and money.

Next is acoustic caulking all the corners of the sheetrock, install the sliding glass doors and solid core wood doors.

My good friend does hardwood floors for a living so he's going to install the floors. We are putting a thick rubber base down called quiet walk, then a Pergo type floor over that. The floor wont touch any of the walls so it will float in each room.

The electrician is coming back to install the conduit outlets in each room, then it's just the finishing touches and the electronics.

My estimate for this was May 1st when I started in December. But it looks like June 1st is go-live

I have about 4 bands that keep asking me when I'm going to be finished so I have some motivation.

One question - what tool would I use to know what frequencies to eliminate from the room via a slot resonator?

Thanks,
Rob

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:42 am

Rob, I looked for your current setup and just got more confused. Got a link to plans or pix? Thanks... Steve

Riad · Post by **Riad** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 10:01 am

knightfly wrote:Rob, I looked for your current setup and just got more confused. Got a link to plans or pix? Thanks... Steve

Haha... ok.

http://mk29.image.pbase.com/u39/riadanz ... rsion3.jpg

This image is also on www.pbase.com/riadanza/studio

Let me know what questions you have.

Rob

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 6:10 pm

Duh, not sure how I missed that link in your earlier post - the top one of your latest post is forbidden but the other works.

Do you have a detail drawing of your wall construction where the slot frame goes, showing where your wallboard layers are? I'm curious about isolation, not seeing any actual barrier. Also curious about dimensions on the slot, so I can get a better handle on possible combinations of slat/slot/depth dimensions.

As to the slot itself, I would think you should go for a center average frequency that's split between your 3rd and 4th harmonic of average width, that would also treat one of the vertical modes. Slots can't get down low enough for the primary modal frequencies very well, besides your rear trap should be able to handle that part. Speaking of which, do you have a detail of what you're going to do for that rear trap?

Looking really good so far, let us know on those details - Maybe John has more suggestions on the slots, he's done a bunch... Steve

703

703

703 baffle