Hello all
i'm new to the forum...I realize there's been some posts on Homasote 440 but most of the reading I could find on this topic seemed to be from 10 years ago or so. I read the Gervais book and am building a small studio that's connected to my house (based in old garage) and doubled in size, extended out about 300+ sq. ft.
I'm not looking to acheive 100% isolation as it didn't make sense to overbuild for our house but I'm looking for the most bang for the buck, basically the main objective is the least noise leaking back into my house. I did the two leaf wall system as per Gervais' book and am now at a point where we were looking at stud-homasote-greenglue-sheetrock but Homasote is proving to be costly. My question is, is it worth the money or am I better off with just stud-sheetrock-greenglue-sheetrock. Again, not expecting a completely isolated room just the least noise into my house while working.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. From what I could find on this forum about this argument no studies had actually been done about the Homasote back then.
Thanks
Adrian
Homasote 440 vs. regular sheetrock
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Re: Homasote 440 vs. regular sheetrock
Hi Adrian, and welcome! 
"stud-sheetrock-greenglue-sheetrock" is the way things are done mostly these days, and it works pretty well. Plenty of studies have been done on that, and the way it works is fairly well understood.
Another alternative is to replace the first layer (against the studs) with either plywood or OSB. The density is a little lower than drywall, but it gives you structural advantages (the wall is a lot stronger in sheer), and also provides a nailing surface around 100% of the wall: you don't need to go looking for studs to hang your treatment... you can nail things up anywhere, and be sure of hitting solid wood that is capable of taking a nail or screw and supporting significant weight.
- Stuart -
"stud-sheetrock-greenglue-sheetrock" is the way things are done mostly these days, and it works pretty well. Plenty of studies have been done on that, and the way it works is fairly well understood.
Another alternative is to replace the first layer (against the studs) with either plywood or OSB. The density is a little lower than drywall, but it gives you structural advantages (the wall is a lot stronger in sheer), and also provides a nailing surface around 100% of the wall: you don't need to go looking for studs to hang your treatment... you can nail things up anywhere, and be sure of hitting solid wood that is capable of taking a nail or screw and supporting significant weight.
- Stuart -