The truth about Acoustical Sealants?
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heavymetal
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- Location: New York City
The truth about Acoustical Sealants?
hi again,
I'm trying to ascertain the difference between the myriad acoustical sealants. Are ethelyne glycol sealants really that much more effective than acrylic polymer (or latex) sealants?
Why are some of these so-called "acoustical sealants" so much more expensive than plain ol' calk?
What's the best brand for your buck?
thanks.
I'm trying to ascertain the difference between the myriad acoustical sealants. Are ethelyne glycol sealants really that much more effective than acrylic polymer (or latex) sealants?
Why are some of these so-called "acoustical sealants" so much more expensive than plain ol' calk?
What's the best brand for your buck?
thanks.
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the dreamer
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Jester
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Sword9
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- Location: Nashville, TN
I read the two links in this thread and others in this and other forums and I still have no clue as to which brand or even type is heralded as the best or even a top 3.
It seems like everybody liked the GE silicon II for a while and then later in one of the threads it's ruled out completely. Did anybody discern this bucket of info better than me?
It seems like everybody liked the GE silicon II for a while and then later in one of the threads it's ruled out completely. Did anybody discern this bucket of info better than me?
SaM Harrison
Location Engineers
Nashville, TN
Location Engineers
Nashville, TN
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Jester
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heavymetal
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gdgross
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Tell me about it. Beofre I started construction, I ordered a box of 12 tubes (29oz per tube), thinking that would be more than enough for my 140sq ft room.Jester wrote:I am going thru the stuff like crazy!
I'm now on my third box, and will probably need to order a fourth box before this project is finished!
Geoff
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Jester
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ollie wrubel
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- Location: massachusettes
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tips
Sounds like a lot of people are going through a lot of sealant. Here are a couple of suggestions that may help - sorry if this is obvious stuff that everyone is already doing. These suggestions are about accuracy, and although they relate to hanging sheetrock, the priciple should apply to any work that has to be sealed airtight. The idea, of course, is to keep the gap small and even, which means cutting very carefully.
!. When scoring the sheetrock, don't just use a snapped or drawn line - make a straight edge from a 4' strip of 1/8"aluminum - hold firmly or clamp it to the sheetrock and use it as a guide for the knife. It's a pain, but your line will be much straighter. (oh, and change blades often!)
2. After you score, snap the sheetrock and cut the back side, the edge will still be a little lumpy. Buy a sheetrock rasp - a little flat metal plane with a rough face. Run it gently up and down the face of your cut edge, being careful not to damage the paper, until the cut is straight and smooth.
3. On corners, which may not be a perfect 90 degrees, hold up the uncut sheetrock and slide it over until some part of it buts up against the other sheet - there will be a gap at the top or bottom. Take a pencil and hold it flat against the adjoining plane of sheetrock with the pencil point against the piece you want to cut. Slide it down the sheet leaving a line on the piece to be cut. Now use the straight edge to make cut. When you slide the new piece back in place, insert a shim of some material that is the thickness of the gap you want. Slide the new piece hard up against it and then screw the sheet in place - then remove the shim.
Now you'll have a small consistant gap that will take much less caulk to fill.
Hiring professional sheetrockers may not be the dumbest thing either - they be done in no time - it won't cost much - and most can do a much better job than us weekend hackers!
-Ollie
!. When scoring the sheetrock, don't just use a snapped or drawn line - make a straight edge from a 4' strip of 1/8"aluminum - hold firmly or clamp it to the sheetrock and use it as a guide for the knife. It's a pain, but your line will be much straighter. (oh, and change blades often!)
2. After you score, snap the sheetrock and cut the back side, the edge will still be a little lumpy. Buy a sheetrock rasp - a little flat metal plane with a rough face. Run it gently up and down the face of your cut edge, being careful not to damage the paper, until the cut is straight and smooth.
3. On corners, which may not be a perfect 90 degrees, hold up the uncut sheetrock and slide it over until some part of it buts up against the other sheet - there will be a gap at the top or bottom. Take a pencil and hold it flat against the adjoining plane of sheetrock with the pencil point against the piece you want to cut. Slide it down the sheet leaving a line on the piece to be cut. Now use the straight edge to make cut. When you slide the new piece back in place, insert a shim of some material that is the thickness of the gap you want. Slide the new piece hard up against it and then screw the sheet in place - then remove the shim.
Now you'll have a small consistant gap that will take much less caulk to fill.
Hiring professional sheetrockers may not be the dumbest thing either - they be done in no time - it won't cost much - and most can do a much better job than us weekend hackers!
-Ollie
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puppypuree
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