Advice needed for modifying a control room door.

[aschatzb]

Hello, I'm in the process of trying to put together a budget door for my control room. I can't drop 3-5k on a sound rated door. I'm hoping to get some tips on modifying a solid wood door for standard 2x4 stud wall and 2 layers of 5/8s gyps on each side.

1st problem. I want to use laminated glass to create a full light door... (trying to keep lines of sight open in the studio). Installing the glass correctly could be difficult in a typical door. If someone knows anything about installing glass in like this, I sure could use some tips.

If someone could recommend a wood door for this application, this would be extremely helpful.

I'll be picking up some zero seals for sides, top, jam.

Fortunately, this door opens to a vestibule, so it won't be a direct partition to the studio proper...

I think I touched on all the details, thank you:) andrew

[Aaronw]

Hey Andrew,

I picked up 4 window doors at H.D. a couple months ago. They have 30", 32" and 36" solid fir doors w/ glass already installed. They were about $150 each. Just an idea.

[knightfly]

A single leaf door of 1-3/4" (exterior) thickness, solid wood, would require 3/4" thick glass for close to the same isolation, which isn't all that great without a second mass and air gap (hopefully provided by your vestibule) - however, if you're using double sided walls on BOTH walls of your vestibule between CR and live room, those may end up being weaker than your doors due to quad leaf construction - is there a drawing up somewhere? Steve

[aschatzb]

Here's a look at the vestibule...

[knightfly]

OK, but can you show actual layers for each wall? I'd need to know where each mass is, whether on both or one side of frames, etc... Steve

[aschatzb]

Hey Steve, thanks again... At this point in time, the only walls that actually exist, are the control room and the structural wall in-between the studio proper and control room. I haven't decided what to do about this center wall, perhaps leave the air gap, or fill void with mineral wool. The control room wall has two layers of 5/8s on one side, and insulated with mineral wool. Ultimately the studio proper walls will be the same. Where the control room walls are exposed to the vestibule, I plan to use 2 more layers of 5/8s on that side, but only in the vestibule area. The entirety of the vestibule will be treated alike...

I'm trying to decide what I should do about that control room door that opens to the vestibule. If I pick up a solid wood exterior door and interior frame to accommodate the extra thick walls, I can modify the door using zero seal products. If I pick up a piece of 3/4 laminated glass, this will leave 1/2" inch on either side of the glass to case the window. I can mount the window on epdm rubber to create a nice tight seal. Does the size of the window matter?

There are so many different materials for the core of the wooden doors,
I'm having trouble deciding what to ask for...

thanks, andrew

[knightfly]

Yes, the size of the window matters; the larger the glass, the worse the TL, mainly at lower frequencies (all other things remaining equal)

Can you do a detail drawing of what you THINK your walls/sound lock should be? Then I can see if you're on the right track, or have no clue what a train is (Just kidding, I'm a kidder dahlink...)

[aschatzb]

I hope this image clears a few things up:)

thanks!

andrew

[knightfly]

We're getting closer; what's your definition of a "structural wall" - concrete block, solid concrete, 2x6 studs with siding, or??

Overall, I doubt your sound lock will cause any problems as near as I can tell -

It would help more if you could add to that drawing showing where (which side, etc) the mineral wool is, whether the vestibule has any absorption, etc... Steve

[aschatzb]

Yo - The structural wall is a 2x6 wood stud wall that runs in-between the studio proper and control room. There is nothing else to this wall (no siding...) I'll probably end up filling that wall with mineral wool. The control room is entirely 2x4 wood stud filled with mineral wool. I haven't built the studio walls yet, or the vestibule, but most likely they will be 2x6 as the ceilings in the studio proper are nearly 20 ft. The walls that finish off the vestibule are actually the structural walls. I think I'll be using mineral wool in every wall... Unless that's overkill. If you still need a drawing, let me know:)

Back to the door. I want the most bang for the buck with full glass (or close to it). I prefer wood, but I might be flexible. I can install the 3/4" laminate, but will need to figure out the best way to modify the door.
Any suggestions for installation and materials? thanks!!! andrew

[aschatzb]

Oh yeah, I was taking another look at the drawing, and noticed what I had labeled as D (structural wall), looks like I'm talking about what is actually 2 huge peices of laminated glass... D is actually referring to the wall in-between the walls of the two rooms... The structural wall has a 7ft header where those windows are. It's getting late here in the east, details are making me dizzy:)

[knightfly]

Andrew, try as I may I'm not really following what is attached to what from your descriptions; this is why drawings are preferred, visuals are much easier to follow than text explanations, even from former tech writers like myself - so yes, please please pleeeeze do a detailed, layer by layer, drawing of your vestibule area... Steve

[aschatzb]

Hey Steve, thanks for sticking with me... When you look at something everyday, you tend to take certain details for granit. I think this next image should clear mostly everything up... knock on gyps (2 layers).

[knightfly]

Looks like you've not violated the 2-leaf rule in any walls; now, if that double dotted line to the left of the vestibule is also a double layer of gypsum, then as long as all doors are closed you have 2-leaf conditions when the doors are closed, although under those conditions your walls may be slightly weakening LF isolation.

By that, if you'll notice - when the airlock is closed, you have 4-leaf barriers between CR and live room, CR and Iso room wherever the actual WALLS or glass are, and 2-leaf barriers where the single, solid core doors are; It's difficult to say how much this will affect LF isolation, but it's also difficult to NOT create this condition.

If you discover that LF iso is not up to par, a check of door seals would be first in line and if those aren't where the leakage is coming from, then another layer of gyp on the walls (one side at first) may be necessary.

Ceiling may also be suspect, we've not talked about that... Steve