Wall/slot
-
knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Doesn't look like it will work for either use; if those two brown layers at the rear on either side of the rear most absorbent are supposed to be two leaves in a mass-air-mass barrier, they are flanked by the end pieces and are too light for good isolation.
How will this be set up so it's movable? Hinges, casters, handles to pick it up, ??
The inner insulation layer, in order to work as a Helmholtz, needs to be up against the front slats with only a cloth between it and the slats; this forces the slots into helmholtz mode, and also damps the slats to lessen any ringing at resonance frequency.
The thicker the insulation inside, the broader band the Helmholtz action and the less the trapping effect; somewhere around 50% of the total inside space (average) is a good working range of thickness in most cases... Steve
How will this be set up so it's movable? Hinges, casters, handles to pick it up, ??
The inner insulation layer, in order to work as a Helmholtz, needs to be up against the front slats with only a cloth between it and the slats; this forces the slots into helmholtz mode, and also damps the slats to lessen any ringing at resonance frequency.
The thicker the insulation inside, the broader band the Helmholtz action and the less the trapping effect; somewhere around 50% of the total inside space (average) is a good working range of thickness in most cases... Steve
-
Yiannis
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:09 am
- Location: Greece
Hi Steve,
thank you very much for your reply and for your help again!
I am trying to do the best for the place that I have to work in for the moment!
Anfortunately I dont have the ideal place to record music, so I am trying to do the best to make it sound ok.
Well the back panel gonna be 3cm mdf as the one in the middle.
Still not good right?
About the resonators you say that fill the 50% withh isulation gonna be ok.
What about if I fill all the space behind the slots?
I am planning to use 3cm slats.Is that ok?
Also John says (in the draws) that the salts should have gaps from 6mm-12mm.In what ratio and order please?
I mean if it is : 6mm-7mm-8mm-9mm-10mm-11mm-12mm
It should be in linear mode or random?
Thanks again and forgive me for my english
Yiannis
PS:I will use casters and handles to move those panels
thank you very much for your reply and for your help again!
I am trying to do the best for the place that I have to work in for the moment!
Anfortunately I dont have the ideal place to record music, so I am trying to do the best to make it sound ok.
Well the back panel gonna be 3cm mdf as the one in the middle.
Still not good right?
About the resonators you say that fill the 50% withh isulation gonna be ok.
What about if I fill all the space behind the slots?
I am planning to use 3cm slats.Is that ok?
Also John says (in the draws) that the salts should have gaps from 6mm-12mm.In what ratio and order please?
I mean if it is : 6mm-7mm-8mm-9mm-10mm-11mm-12mm
It should be in linear mode or random?
Thanks again and forgive me for my english
Yiannis
PS:I will use casters and handles to move those panels
Yiannis
-
knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Well the back panel gonna be 3cm mdf
3 cm, or 3mm??
What about if I fill all the space behind the slots?
Then you would have a nice looking bass trap that won't absorb highs, but it would NOT be a slat absorber.
There are specific ways of setting the spacing and depth of each part of a trap to get the desired result. Unless you already KNOW what specific frequencies you will have problems with (doubtful until you finish the room) it's not a good idea to pick random frequencies and build traps for them.
Can you link to your existing thread on room details so I can get a better idea of what's already there (or will be)? Thanks... Steve
3 cm, or 3mm??
What about if I fill all the space behind the slots?
Then you would have a nice looking bass trap that won't absorb highs, but it would NOT be a slat absorber.
There are specific ways of setting the spacing and depth of each part of a trap to get the desired result. Unless you already KNOW what specific frequencies you will have problems with (doubtful until you finish the room) it's not a good idea to pick random frequencies and build traps for them.
Can you link to your existing thread on room details so I can get a better idea of what's already there (or will be)? Thanks... Steve
-
Yiannis
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:09 am
- Location: Greece
Thanks Steve.
Its 3cm.
Here is the link but please dont laught with the room (at least not loud)
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3470
Thank you very much Steve!
Always a big help!
Its 3cm.
Here is the link but please dont laught with the room (at least not loud)
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3470
Thank you very much Steve!
Always a big help!
Yiannis
-
knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
OK, starting to make a bit more sense now I see what you're up against - still, I'm not sure I understand what your picture of the slat absorber is showing - I see a thin layer at the very back, then rockwool, then a thicker layer, then more rockwool, then an air space and finally the slats.
What SHOULD be there, is a HEAVY back panel, then an air space, then rockwool against the front slats, with a cloth cover between the slats and the rockwool.
Are you hoping that this will also act as a sound isolation between rooms by placing it in front of your doors? Steve
What SHOULD be there, is a HEAVY back panel, then an air space, then rockwool against the front slats, with a cloth cover between the slats and the rockwool.
Are you hoping that this will also act as a sound isolation between rooms by placing it in front of your doors? Steve
-
knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
3 cm MDF should be heavy enough to give you a hernia; and if it's sealed around the edges, it should help several dB with isolation (provided that the REST of the space is ALSO sealed - otherwise, not so much
)
That's the correct positioning for the absorbent when used in a Helmholtz (slat) resonator. Now, do you have ANY idea what frequency(s) these should be tuned to? Steve
That's the correct positioning for the absorbent when used in a Helmholtz (slat) resonator. Now, do you have ANY idea what frequency(s) these should be tuned to? Steve
-
Yiannis
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:09 am
- Location: Greece
Steve,
I will be very carefull when I will move those beasts!!
finally I have 3cm for the back-top-bottom and 2cm for the sides!
Should I make the slats with an angle(as in the draw)or not?
What do you think about the panel?Live it as in the draw or make it like this: back panel 3cm MDF>>5cm rockwool>>2cmMDF(or osb) and then air space rockwool,cloth,slats!
Will that give to me better isolation?
I have no idea about those frequencys!
Thank you
I will be very carefull when I will move those beasts!!
finally I have 3cm for the back-top-bottom and 2cm for the sides!
Should I make the slats with an angle(as in the draw)or not?
What do you think about the panel?Live it as in the draw or make it like this: back panel 3cm MDF>>5cm rockwool>>2cmMDF(or osb) and then air space rockwool,cloth,slats!
Will that give to me better isolation?
I have no idea about those frequencys!
Thank you
Yiannis
-
knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
I would leave it as in the drawing; your sound isolation would be limited to "mass law" of the rear panel, so would only amount to maybe STC 30 at best, with around 20 dB TL at low frequencies. Even this will only happen with total seal around the edges.
The slanted front will help reduce or eliminate flutter echo in the room... Steve
The slanted front will help reduce or eliminate flutter echo in the room... Steve
-
Yiannis
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:09 am
- Location: Greece
Ok Steve I will construct it as you say!
The oposite wall from the panels will be 10cm rockwool with 5cm space coverd with cloth.Good or bad?
All the corners will have basstraps.Also the ceiling corners
another question about the ceiling please!
Room height is 3,24m!
i am planning to live 30cm air space and then put 30cm of rookwool covered with cloth.Not for isolation just for absorption!
Comments?
The oposite wall from the panels will be 10cm rockwool with 5cm space coverd with cloth.Good or bad?
All the corners will have basstraps.Also the ceiling corners
another question about the ceiling please!
Room height is 3,24m!
i am planning to live 30cm air space and then put 30cm of rookwool covered with cloth.Not for isolation just for absorption!
Comments?
Yiannis
-
Yiannis
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:09 am
- Location: Greece
Steve you said that
"your sound isolation would be limited to "mass law" of the rear panel,"
Then I have 3cm MDF (mass) air gap(spring) and 5cm rockwool(mass?).
Should I double the rockwool layer to have more mass or live the construction as John says at 20cm?
Now its 30cm front to back
Thanks
"your sound isolation would be limited to "mass law" of the rear panel,"
Then I have 3cm MDF (mass) air gap(spring) and 5cm rockwool(mass?).
Should I double the rockwool layer to have more mass or live the construction as John says at 20cm?
Now its 30cm front to back
Thanks
Yiannis
-
knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
No, only the MDF would count as isolation; the rockwool won't do ANYTHING for isolation, only for absorption at or around frequencies determined by slat and slot width, and average air gap depth measured from the rear of the slats to the midpoint of the rear MDF panel.
If anything, putting the slats/rockwool in front of the MDF would WORSEN the isolation, especially at the resonant frequency.
You do NOT want to thicken the rockwool to fill the trap, or else it won't BE a trap but only a deflector; leave the rockwool thickness as John said... Steve
If anything, putting the slats/rockwool in front of the MDF would WORSEN the isolation, especially at the resonant frequency.
You do NOT want to thicken the rockwool to fill the trap, or else it won't BE a trap but only a deflector; leave the rockwool thickness as John said... Steve
-
Yiannis
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:09 am
- Location: Greece
Yiannis wrote:Ok Steve I will construct it as you say!
The oposite wall from the panels will be 10cm rockwool with 5cm space coverd with cloth.Good or bad?
All the corners will have basstraps.Also the ceiling corners
another question about the ceiling please!
Room height is 3,24m!
i am planning to live 30cm air space and then put 30cm of rookwool covered with cloth.Not for isolation just for absorption!
Comments?
Thank you Steve!
Could you please tell me your opinion on the above questions too?
Yiannis