What are some opionions on this gasket for studs and joists?
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LiveWire
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What are some opionions on this gasket for studs and joists?
This is used on all framing that meets a wall. what do you think about it? I would think isolating them with a little bit of material like this would be helpful in some of the resonating freq in the room. Especially on the shared wall.
What has anyone heard/experienced with this kind of thing?
http://www.soundisolationcompany.com/in ... gasket.php
What has anyone heard/experienced with this kind of thing?
http://www.soundisolationcompany.com/in ... gasket.php
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sharward
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The concept is good, but I don't trust the company selling the product. First, they sell something that they call Soundproofing Foam, which is
B.S.
Also, they don't post any credible testing results, which all reputable product manufacturers (like Kinetics Noise Control and Mason Industries) do publish.
My stink-o-meter is maxed out.
My stink-o-meter is maxed out.
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Dan Fitzpatrick
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sharward
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drfrankencopter
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Not only does a gasket material have no chance of getting the comparable performance to a staggared stud wall, it will likely cost more too.
I mean, what's the extra cost with a staggared wall...you use 2X6 headers and footers instead of 2X4. How much is this gasket product?
Of course, given the installation instruction you only have IG on half your conenctions, but even that doesn't make any sense, I mean once you screw your wall to it doesn't its resilancy completely disapear, making it almost useless.....
I wouldn't buy that one....in fact, I don't believe in most of the "gee-whiz" acoustic solutions. Really, the most reliable stuff is mass, and dead air.
Cheers,
Kris
I mean, what's the extra cost with a staggared wall...you use 2X6 headers and footers instead of 2X4. How much is this gasket product?
Of course, given the installation instruction you only have IG on half your conenctions, but even that doesn't make any sense, I mean once you screw your wall to it doesn't its resilancy completely disapear, making it almost useless.....
I wouldn't buy that one....in fact, I don't believe in most of the "gee-whiz" acoustic solutions. Really, the most reliable stuff is mass, and dead air.
Cheers,
Kris
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LiveWire
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Using that product and it's BS wasn't really my intention.
What I was looking to see is if a foam or rubber layer in between the studs and the drywall would help.
I was using that as a example.
I am not trying to substitute a staggered wall at all... just looking for another little bit of isolation, as I would have soundblock vinyl we could cut into strips or use a self adhesive foam tape.
Any suggestions
What I was looking to see is if a foam or rubber layer in between the studs and the drywall would help.
I was using that as a example.
I am not trying to substitute a staggered wall at all... just looking for another little bit of isolation, as I would have soundblock vinyl we could cut into strips or use a self adhesive foam tape.
Any suggestions
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sharward
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Soundblock vinyl? That stuff sucks too.
One of the things I've learned here in the last year or so is the fact that one can't look at an isolation project in terms of "little bits." One needs to look at the entire picture and design an entire solution, albeit made up of many components, some of which are small, but that contribute towards an overarching goal.
If something is "bad," generally adding some small or simple things won't make it "much better."
I've looked through all of your posts, and I have yet to see any illustrations of your space or any communicable plans at all. Perhaps you'll get more value out of the forum if you start your own project thread, following all of the guidelines in the "Before You Post" announcement. Take your time -- generally the best formed project-oriented introductory posts get the most valuable responses and really propel your project in the right direction.
Bottom line, seeking comment or advice on this exhaust system or that suspension system or these tires or those wheels won't be of much value to you in the long run. On the other hand, having a complete picture of the car you want to build will yield greater context to the questions you're asking.
--Keith
One of the things I've learned here in the last year or so is the fact that one can't look at an isolation project in terms of "little bits." One needs to look at the entire picture and design an entire solution, albeit made up of many components, some of which are small, but that contribute towards an overarching goal.
If something is "bad," generally adding some small or simple things won't make it "much better."
I've looked through all of your posts, and I have yet to see any illustrations of your space or any communicable plans at all. Perhaps you'll get more value out of the forum if you start your own project thread, following all of the guidelines in the "Before You Post" announcement. Take your time -- generally the best formed project-oriented introductory posts get the most valuable responses and really propel your project in the right direction.
Bottom line, seeking comment or advice on this exhaust system or that suspension system or these tires or those wheels won't be of much value to you in the long run. On the other hand, having a complete picture of the car you want to build will yield greater context to the questions you're asking.
--Keith
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Dan Fitzpatrick
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that's good advice keith.
specifically on the foam, the reason it won't work is that the wallboard still will be firmly coupled to the studs with screws or nails, so having a layer of foam between won't do much good.
there is a method to decouple wallboard from studs, which is called resilient channel. if this is used then the screws holding the drywall to the wall are not directly connected to the studs, that's why it works.
also don't lose sight of the fact that many if not most of these "gee-whiz" hi tech solutions are much more expensive than the tried-and-true solutions that have been tested and shown to work.
once you start calculating out how much foam you would need and how much it would cost, i'm betting your interest in it would diminish quite a bit, regardless of whether it did any good or not.
specifically on the foam, the reason it won't work is that the wallboard still will be firmly coupled to the studs with screws or nails, so having a layer of foam between won't do much good.
there is a method to decouple wallboard from studs, which is called resilient channel. if this is used then the screws holding the drywall to the wall are not directly connected to the studs, that's why it works.
also don't lose sight of the fact that many if not most of these "gee-whiz" hi tech solutions are much more expensive than the tried-and-true solutions that have been tested and shown to work.
once you start calculating out how much foam you would need and how much it would cost, i'm betting your interest in it would diminish quite a bit, regardless of whether it did any good or not.
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LiveWire
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Keith sorry about not having drawings and all the good info. As you can see I don't build studios.
I own a studio wiring company that wires studios and other audio systems all through out the US. I don't construct studios or claim to! haha...
I know what i need to about studio construction to get my work done!
A friend of mine is building a room and his builder is ready to go so of course he didn't have any info for him, so I am just trying to help him out as much as possible.
I own a studio wiring company that wires studios and other audio systems all through out the US. I don't construct studios or claim to! haha...
I know what i need to about studio construction to get my work done!
A friend of mine is building a room and his builder is ready to go so of course he didn't have any info for him, so I am just trying to help him out as much as possible.
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sharward
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Most of us don't -- we're mostly just a bunch of regular people who are trying to figure out (and help other regular people) how do the job right themselves.LiveWire wrote:. . . I don't build studios. . .
If your friend has an eager builder with no precise plans to follow, then I'm sure I'm not the only person here who thinks that's a disaster waiting to happen. Judging from the lifespan of most of the thorough project threads here, I'd say your friend is several months behind. He needs to get bulletproof plans together before the first nail is driven. Otherwise, disappointment almost certainly awaits.A friend of mine is building a room and his builder is ready to go so of course he didn't have any info for him, so I am just trying to help him out as much as possible.
Best of luck...
--Keith
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LiveWire
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I agree, but it is a wierd situation as his space and others need to be finished so they can get a C.O. and the other tenants can move in.
We have a decent plan as to what we are doing, it's just getting any more info before the building begins is what I was after.
I will post some pics as the construction progresses.
Thanks, and any other tips would be great as well.
We have a decent plan as to what we are doing, it's just getting any more info before the building begins is what I was after.
I will post some pics as the construction progresses.
Thanks, and any other tips would be great as well.
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Sword9
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That green glue stuff works the same way as that bluish rolled stuff in the first post, although the GG is supposedly much more dense. I won't see all of their claims being true, but it's bound to make some difference. Perhaps not enough to warrant its cost or usefulness, but I don't think it's fake.
A studio designer that I used to work for said that soundproofing should basically be called transmission acoustics, since it's basically the science of decreasing a sound wave's energy as it goes through things. Every time sound has to change medium, it loses power. Using multiple layers and making that wave decrease in strength is the basic principle behind M-A-M construction since molecules bump together and don't move through things. That layer between the drywall and studs is another change that has be transmitted through, and therefore has to attenuate somehow. It just might not be enough to be important. You'd need some tests and data for that.
A studio designer that I used to work for said that soundproofing should basically be called transmission acoustics, since it's basically the science of decreasing a sound wave's energy as it goes through things. Every time sound has to change medium, it loses power. Using multiple layers and making that wave decrease in strength is the basic principle behind M-A-M construction since molecules bump together and don't move through things. That layer between the drywall and studs is another change that has be transmitted through, and therefore has to attenuate somehow. It just might not be enough to be important. You'd need some tests and data for that.
SaM Harrison
Location Engineers
Nashville, TN
Location Engineers
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Sword9
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Yep, approaching month 13 on our project here and not a pail of dirt has been moved or a nail been hammered yet. Soon though!sharward wrote: Judging from the lifespan of most of the thorough project threads here, I'd say your friend is several months behind.
SaM Harrison
Location Engineers
Nashville, TN
Location Engineers
Nashville, TN
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Dan Fitzpatrick
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