Keeping my kids asleep?
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
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- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
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Keeping my kids asleep?
Greetings folks I am very happy I found this place. I am in the thinking about stage of building me a new project studio. (2-3 months) Here is the thing I will have a control room that will be 12x14x7 a mini performance room at 11x12x7.5 and an Iso booth about 3x4x7. the thing about it is my childrens rooms are both directly above each. I have a pair of 20/20bas monitors and plan to get a sub some day, A pair of Old 15" floor speakers and some irrelavent fostex ps-10's. I have a hung ceiling which I have taken the ceiling tiles out of and have a grid. So I have now is the 8 inch floor joists then about 3 to 4 inches of space until the ceiling tiles. I dont really have a budget but I dont want this whole project to be more than a couple thousand if possible. I have been looking into homasote, celotex soundstop, and I have thought maybe durock insulation but pricey in the ceiling would work, but then again I really dont know. My neighbors are far enough away I dont really need to worry. I am in a new house now. I built a similar studio before but it didnt come out quite as good as I had hoped. Was still pretty cool though. But I think taking my time I will get a little better results. I also want to get some good isolation from control to performance room but thats a different day. Wall hasnt been built yet.
Questions
1. What is the best way to isolate the sound from basement to upstairs with or without getting crazy? Keep the kids asleep during late night jam sessions.
2. I think ceiling tiles would be a good way to get a little more air space up there maybe? And what type if any ceiling tiles would work best? They are 2x2.
Any help appreciated
Thanks much.
Questions
1. What is the best way to isolate the sound from basement to upstairs with or without getting crazy? Keep the kids asleep during late night jam sessions.
2. I think ceiling tiles would be a good way to get a little more air space up there maybe? And what type if any ceiling tiles would work best? They are 2x2.
Any help appreciated
Thanks much.
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knightfly
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Forget all the materials you mentioned above; they cost more and do less than plain old drywall. What does the trick is MASS, and drywall is one of the cheaper high-mass materials going, in most countries.
Ceiling tiles don't work well for sound isolation because you have all these LEAKS between tiles, where the support grid goes.
BEst thing you can do is get rid of everything below your joists, fill with standard un-faced insulation, and hang two layers of 5/8" drywall on resilient mounts directly from your joists. This will add about 4.7 pounds per square foot to your joists, so we'll need to know joist depth, spacing and spans to be sure you're OK.
Here's a sketch of what I'm talking about -
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=13335
besides Resilient Channel, there's a more expensive way using RSIC clips (rubber isolators) and steel hat channel - it's stronger than Resilient Channel, and harder to make mistakes with... Steve
BTW, getting rid of your ceiling grid/tiles will actually let your ceiling be a couple inches HIGHER, and it sounds like you need all the headroom you can get.
If your subfloor is 3/4" OSB with a layer of 1/2" MDF over, putting 2 layers of 5/8 gypsum on RC under your 8" joists with at least 4" of insulation inside, should get you around STC 61 with a low freq TL of around 30 dB @ 50 hZ - for the low end, you'd be at around 85-90 dB in the room before anything could be heard upstairs, even by a wide-awake child. (This is of course assuming you have no FLANKING paths to worry about, like shared concrete walls, HVAC ducting, etc)
HTH... Steve
Ceiling tiles don't work well for sound isolation because you have all these LEAKS between tiles, where the support grid goes.
BEst thing you can do is get rid of everything below your joists, fill with standard un-faced insulation, and hang two layers of 5/8" drywall on resilient mounts directly from your joists. This will add about 4.7 pounds per square foot to your joists, so we'll need to know joist depth, spacing and spans to be sure you're OK.
Here's a sketch of what I'm talking about -
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=13335
besides Resilient Channel, there's a more expensive way using RSIC clips (rubber isolators) and steel hat channel - it's stronger than Resilient Channel, and harder to make mistakes with... Steve
BTW, getting rid of your ceiling grid/tiles will actually let your ceiling be a couple inches HIGHER, and it sounds like you need all the headroom you can get.
If your subfloor is 3/4" OSB with a layer of 1/2" MDF over, putting 2 layers of 5/8 gypsum on RC under your 8" joists with at least 4" of insulation inside, should get you around STC 61 with a low freq TL of around 30 dB @ 50 hZ - for the low end, you'd be at around 85-90 dB in the room before anything could be heard upstairs, even by a wide-awake child. (This is of course assuming you have no FLANKING paths to worry about, like shared concrete walls, HVAC ducting, etc)
HTH... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
- Contact:
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Insulate around the duct and box it in with at least two layers of tightly sealed/caulked gypsum; you can use standard house insulation (fiberglass, NOT the EPS foam board stuff) - if you will have mineral wool for acoustic treatment, use that instead for insulating around the duct before the gypsum... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
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Darn I forgot about the main A/C vent that runs through the middle of the room, its like 1ft by 8 in and goes right down the middle of the room. This is gonna be only in the live room. Its the main vent that goes to every room in the house. Ive currently got the bathroom above it ripped out to the joists. Its got a drywall already finished around it from the bottom end. Rip it out and redo?
Also Where do I get RC , and how much does it cost. I swear I've been searching the forum but cant find it. Learnin a lot of other good stuff though.
I have heard people here talk about RC-1 and I saw what they called RC-8 at the Auralex site. (No prices) Is this defferent?
Is soundstop the same idea of dampening vibrations to the stud, and is it as good
You say enclose the vent in gypsum with insulation. Do you mean make a square around the vent? This would be hard because I only have about an inch on each side. Or just put 2 layers on the botom under the vent before the RC and gypsum?
Thanks much, getting real pumped about this, might start even sooner than planned.
You guys rock
Also Where do I get RC , and how much does it cost. I swear I've been searching the forum but cant find it. Learnin a lot of other good stuff though.
I have heard people here talk about RC-1 and I saw what they called RC-8 at the Auralex site. (No prices) Is this defferent?
Is soundstop the same idea of dampening vibrations to the stud, and is it as good
You say enclose the vent in gypsum with insulation. Do you mean make a square around the vent? This would be hard because I only have about an inch on each side. Or just put 2 layers on the botom under the vent before the RC and gypsum?
Thanks much, getting real pumped about this, might start even sooner than planned.
You guys rock
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Darn I forgot about the main A/C vent that runs through the middle of the room, its like 1ft by 8 in and goes right down the middle of the room. This is gonna be only in the live room. Its the main vent that goes to every room in the house. Ive currently got the bathroom above it ripped out to the joists. Its got a drywall already finished around it from the bottom end. Rip it out and redo?
Depends on a lot of variables; if possible, post a pic so we can see what you mean.
Also Where do I get RC , and how much does it cost. I swear I've been searching the forum but cant find it.
Check with local drywall/insulation suppliers; I've found it locally from a few of those.
I have heard people here talk about RC-1 and I saw what they called RC-8 at the Auralex site. (No prices) Is this defferent?
RC-1 was the original USG part #, no longer made. RC-8 is Auralex' version of that, costs several TIMES what you can buy locally for. Dietrich make a good choice if it's available locally
http://www.dietrichindustries.com/produ ... _46-47.pdf
(The RC Deluxe is what you want, note the difference in perforation on the slanted part of the piece)
Is soundstop the same idea of dampening vibrations to the stud, and is it as good
It can help a bit, but it's cheaper and better to (instead) put another layer of gypsum wallboard, and use insulation in light contact with the inside wallboard for damping.
You say enclose the vent in gypsum with insulation. Do you mean make a square around the vent? This would be hard because I only have about an inch on each side. Or just put 2 layers on the botom under the vent before the RC and gypsum?
Yes, that's what I meant; again, a pic would make things easier for everyone... Steve
Depends on a lot of variables; if possible, post a pic so we can see what you mean.
Also Where do I get RC , and how much does it cost. I swear I've been searching the forum but cant find it.
Check with local drywall/insulation suppliers; I've found it locally from a few of those.
I have heard people here talk about RC-1 and I saw what they called RC-8 at the Auralex site. (No prices) Is this defferent?
RC-1 was the original USG part #, no longer made. RC-8 is Auralex' version of that, costs several TIMES what you can buy locally for. Dietrich make a good choice if it's available locally
http://www.dietrichindustries.com/produ ... _46-47.pdf
(The RC Deluxe is what you want, note the difference in perforation on the slanted part of the piece)
Is soundstop the same idea of dampening vibrations to the stud, and is it as good
It can help a bit, but it's cheaper and better to (instead) put another layer of gypsum wallboard, and use insulation in light contact with the inside wallboard for damping.
You say enclose the vent in gypsum with insulation. Do you mean make a square around the vent? This would be hard because I only have about an inch on each side. Or just put 2 layers on the botom under the vent before the RC and gypsum?
Yes, that's what I meant; again, a pic would make things easier for everyone... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
- Contact:
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
- Contact:
That pic above is the frame, and inside on the left is a steel I beam, and on the right side is the ac duct that runs through the center of the house. Theres about 18 inches of dead space between. The very left side of that thing is where the wall needs to be to separate the Control room from the performance room.
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
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As you can see there isnt a whole lot of room between the joist to enclose the vent with gypsum. What did you mean by enclosing the vent. A square around it or just 2 sheets at the bottom before the rc and sheet rock?
Thanks sorry about all the posts, I lost all my typing 2 times already screwing around. this forum
Thanks sorry about all the posts, I lost all my typing 2 times already screwing around. this forum
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
- Contact:
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
First thing I need to know - what size are your joists, and how far between supports (span)?
for your round ducts, about all you can do is hang RSIC-04 clips under your joists, install hat channel in the clips, and put two layers of 5/8 gypsum on the channel. You would need to stuff around your ducts and in all other cavities with un-faced fiberglass insulation (the fluffy stuff) so it rests against the ducts AND lays on the gypsum for damping.
For your wall, are you planning on single frame or double? Removing what's there, or adding to it? Best isolation is with double frames, putting wallboard ONLY on ONE side of EACH frame, large air space between, filled with fiberglass insulation... Steve
for your round ducts, about all you can do is hang RSIC-04 clips under your joists, install hat channel in the clips, and put two layers of 5/8 gypsum on the channel. You would need to stuff around your ducts and in all other cavities with un-faced fiberglass insulation (the fluffy stuff) so it rests against the ducts AND lays on the gypsum for damping.
For your wall, are you planning on single frame or double? Removing what's there, or adding to it? Best isolation is with double frames, putting wallboard ONLY on ONE side of EACH frame, large air space between, filled with fiberglass insulation... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
- Contact:
Joists on the ceiling are 7 1/4 by 1 3/4. Spacing is at 14 1/2 inches.
On the wall between the control room and the family room should I pop up the 2 layers of gypsum on 2 by 4's now. I have to get this family room done first says the ball and chain. Then build another frame on the other side when I get to it? What is the best air space I should use? I am willing (I guess) to give up 12 inches. Is that enough. I want to be able to be bumping the fifteens as un-noticeably as possible, then when you open the door BOOM! BOOM! BOOM! I dont know how unrealistic I am being here.
Thanks
On the wall between the control room and the family room should I pop up the 2 layers of gypsum on 2 by 4's now. I have to get this family room done first says the ball and chain. Then build another frame on the other side when I get to it? What is the best air space I should use? I am willing (I guess) to give up 12 inches. Is that enough. I want to be able to be bumping the fifteens as un-noticeably as possible, then when you open the door BOOM! BOOM! BOOM! I dont know how unrealistic I am being here.
Thanks
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str8slurpn
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:43 am
- Location: Omaha, Ne U.S.
- Contact:
Sorry Im being so vague, Ill go with the double frame I guess, I will remove the drywall thats there to put up new, but probably leave the studs.
Of course the door is gonna be the weak link, I did like your idea about the hollow core door with mdf on both sides, If I cant find some good solid core doors Im probably going to build some like that. Im going to need about 6 total, that really hurts the funds just for doors.
Thanks
Of course the door is gonna be the weak link, I did like your idea about the hollow core door with mdf on both sides, If I cant find some good solid core doors Im probably going to build some like that. Im going to need about 6 total, that really hurts the funds just for doors.
Thanks
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA