Heres the plan for my studio, waydya tink?

Bryan · Post by **Bryan** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 3:37 am

Hi all, heres the plans i just made, besides some minor details does anyone see a major problem?

the whole floor is poured concret and floating already and the walls are 2-3' with rockwool in the gaps and in the cavity blocks so sound coming in is no problem.

the roof is an 8ft high suspended ceeling but the original height is 10'
would it help to slope from 8' @ the front to 10' @the rear? or would the degree be too subtle to have any affect:?:

i can post up the plans of how it is now to see if anyone else has any ideas that might suit better.

i cant move the south wall unfortunatly so i decided to put in a vocal booth and leave the toilet. because the help

as you can see ive manily just put in real traps as the rooms small enough, is this about right for position or are the wrong. there all the low end ones? i have loads of mid high end foam tiles if there any good?

ok thanks all.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 3:38 am

woops here it is

Post by **John Sayers** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:28 am

Bryan - your design looks good, do you intend to soffit mount your speakers?? I'd make the east wall very dead acoustically instead of the bright traps. (what do you mean by real traps?)

I'd angle the ceiling as you suggested because all your walls are parallel and you could break it up in the ceiling.

cheers
john

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:45 am

hi john thanks.
Ethan Winers real traps design here at

http://www.realtraps.com/products.htm

i dont intend to soffit mount them as i was advised not as there only nearfield bm6a's
there on sand filled monitor stands with spikes
would you reccomend i do soffit?

the traps absorbe from 34hz up.

thanx,is there anything else i should look out for?

heres the diagram that i intend to use:

Post by **John Sayers** » Fri Mar 07, 2003 12:36 am

OK - I know of Ethan's traps - they are Ok but they are reflective surfaces. You don't want them behind you because they will send back short delay reflections that cloud the stereo image your bm6a's will produce. Use the space to add soft bass absorption like hangers.

http://www.saecollege.de/reference_mate ... encies.htm

cheers
John

barefoot · Post by **barefoot** » Fri Mar 07, 2003 9:47 am

Bryan,

I guess I don't understand the shape you arrived at. So, you can't move the inner south wall? Why?

Thomas

bryan · Post by **bryan** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 4:57 am

Hi,
would corner full lenght corner bass traps be any good.
i dont really want to use the hangers, they look like they take up a lot of space?

i cant move that wall because its a 4ft thick wall and to knock it & rebuild it inside the main room wall would be too much .

im still unsure if it will be worth the effort to slop the roof as i wont have a steep angle? any opinions.

thanx again all.

barefoot · Post by **barefoot** » Sat Mar 15, 2003 8:53 am

Brian,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only area that needs complete sound isolation is the vocal booth, right? Or will you have open microphones in the control room area as well? The reason I ask is because the volumes in that L shaped space, the bathroom/vocal booth entrance way, and the bathroom itself could serve as excellent bass traps. Is it feasible to make openings in the NW and SW corners of the inner walls?

Thomas

Oliver Sheen · Post by **Oliver Sheen** » Sat Mar 15, 2003 11:36 am

Bryan,

what is your opinion of Ethans Real traps? Did you make them or buy them made up? I'm thinking of making some myself and I wondered what an impartial user thought.

John, the new realtraps are taperedfrom side to side. They are 5.5" at one side to 4.5" on the other so have a gradual slope over the two foot width. The benefits of this seem to be two fold. Increased frequency range and when they face each other the angle created by two of them is enough to eliminate riging and fluuter echoes.

Any thoughts on this?

Post by **John Sayers** » Sat Mar 15, 2003 9:04 pm

ah - quick swallow, gulp!! well as you may have noticed I don't generally use panel absorbers. why?? because they don't offer 'value for wall space' IMHO. I don't wish to be dismissive of what Ethan proposes but if you read up on panel absorbers they go way back to original BBC style acoustics....so do slots..in fact both are original - pre 70's classic acoustic solutions.

I remember a studio at film australia built in the 60's.It was a big room maybe 60' x 40' with all these 2 x 2 boxes on the wall. Each was either a panel absorber or a perforated hole slot absorber or just a high frequency insulation absorber. For the levels they had at the time it appeared to work but I wouldn't have wanted to record Deep Purple in there.

Whilst this room was cool for it's day but it couldn't handle the high SPL levels of the loud rock bands of the 70's. A new acoustic was required hence the deep trap aka Hidley bass traps with acoustic hangers.

These provided a more intense absorption and managed to withstand the onslaught of the Marshall turned up to 11.

If you read the BBC documentation on panel absorbers http://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/reports/ you will see that they were very frequency dependent, in fact you could tune them to specific frequencies. For Ethan to claim they are broadband defeats the whole science of how they work IMO. Sorry Ethan no offense intended - you may reply

In a studio I worked in in the early 70's we had panel absorbers designed for us by the acoustics lab from Sydney Uni. They built a wall of 2 x 2 x 4 frames and placed various panels of differing thickness and mass over each to provide a broad band low end absorber. For me to have three different thicknesses over a 2 x 8 frame and claim broadband is pushing it

I'm happy for Ethan to inform me and prove me wrong but that's my take on it anyway

cheers
John

Sen · Post by **Sen** » Sun Mar 16, 2003 1:21 am

John, what is the "false ceiling" made of in this instance...
thank you

Post by **John Sayers** » Sun Mar 16, 2003 7:46 am

sen - the simplest and neatest way is to make timber frames out of 2" x 1" and stretch cloth over them. This allows the air to pass through into the ceiling area.

In this photo you can see it done with white hemp cloth - there is also a slot resonator built into the ceiling

cheers
John

bryan · Post by **bryan** » Mon Mar 24, 2003 10:45 am

Hi all ok starting construction this week

still confused as to what treatment to go for???

i havnt built anything yet

i could do what you sugestin john with the roof as i have 2 foot to spare. but would u reccomend to have the whole ceeling cloth and have rookwool behind it? how deep would i stack it?? any plans available.

also what treatment will i use in the room? im turned off the real traps now.

on the rear wall i about a foot left open that i could cloth and fill with rockwool. would this help.

please i need some help, i made mistakes building before and really dnt want to do it again as its expensive

thanx very much

Post by **John Sayers** » Mon Mar 24, 2003 12:07 pm

please i need some help, i made mistakes building before and really dnt want to do it again as its expensive

well - maybe if you spent a bit on the design you may save yourself heaps.

As you aren't a registered member I can't private message you.

cheers
john

Bryan · Post by **Bryan** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 3:08 am

Hi john
wot do you mean spent a bit on design?
I cant really affoard a designer or anything thats why im reading and
trying to get info here and on the web.